A few things I've learnt about growing (environment, nutrients and drying curing)

Think

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May 7, 2013
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I use to grow autos and now I've changed to photos as I'm looking for exotic strains and I've learnt so much talking with very knowledgeable growers, testing things out and seeing results.

I'll start with environment. It is absolute key to keep your environment on point to get the best out of your plants. It's the best nutrient you can give your plants imo. I follow the vpd chart now (vapour pressure deficit) and my humidity doesn't go below 60% during flowering. I keep the humidity at 75-70% whole of veg 70-65% until week 5 of flower then drop its to 65-60 for the rest. I use to ramp mine down to 40% that's the worst thing you can do. If your humidity is as low as that your plants will transpire at a faster rate therefore they will drink more and won't use up the nutrients your giving them resulting in a deficiency. That's why I think a lot of autos to get a calcium OR magnesium deficiency because humidity is too low. (also longer periods of light might cause that) you might think having your humidity too high during flowering is gonna cause bud rot or Pm. Bud rot is 100% caused my stagnant air, every leaf should be moving slightly and you should have plenty of extraction and you could go up to 75% RH as long as your air flow/movement is good. Don't take my word for it read up on vpd and try it.

Stop wasting money on expensive nutrient lines. Im switching to jacks hydroponics 5-12-26 with the 321 formula Powder nutrients and it's so so cheap. I use to use advanced and canna nutrients but your paying for 80% water with bottled nutrients. Powder nutrients are the way forward! Jacks 5-12-26 calcium nitrate and Epsom salt is used from seed to finish at 3 gram per gallon of Jacks 2 grams per gallon of calcium nitrate and 1 gram per gallon of epsom salts from start to finish because the element ratios are so finely tuned you don't need to add more or less throughout the growth cycle and there's no bullshit claims saying this will give you massive yeilds and buds dripping in resin. Check out this video on jacks nutrients
If your tired of getting that hay smell with your bud try this..
When I use to grow autos and drying my method was to wet trim and hang, then I tried paper bag method (which was okay) but I was still left with fresh cut grass slightly hay smell and no terps whatsoever.. The best way to dry is to do a whole plant hang with large fan leaves taken off for 10 days at 60% humidity and 17C. THEN trim your bud and jar it up. I guarantee you that your bud will be so much more flavourful and louder compared to wet trim. I changed to dry trimming and I've never looked back and everyone else who has changed to dry trimming has said the same.

Just wanted to give you some info on what I've learnt myself and from other very talented and knowledgeable growers. If I hadn't of learnt this I would still be growing same way producing shit bud. I still have tons to learn but if you just stick with these methods I assure that you will have great results.
 
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Surgeon

Auto Warrior
Sep 30, 2017
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Currently Smoking
Dutch Passion Auto Ultimate
Can confirm the full plant hang!

I’ve tried wet trim buds directly on rack and wet trim buds in brown paper bags.

They’re all ok, but it always took 6-8 weeks for anything resembling a “dank smell” to come through... it was consistently that hay/cut grass smell, for a long time first.

My most recent grow was Auto Ultimate, full plant hang, 17-19C and 61% humidity. 11 days later I trimmed and jarred. Dank smell came through straight away.... it was a joke how quickly it arrived, really strong too.

I won’t be drying any other way from now on
 

Think

Outside the box
May 7, 2013
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Area 420
Can confirm the full plant hang!

I’ve tried wet trim buds directly on rack and wet trim buds in brown paper bags.

They’re all ok, but it always took 6-8 weeks for anything resembling a “dank smell” to come through... it was consistently that hay/cut grass smell, for a long time first.

My most recent grow was Auto Ultimate, full plant hang, 17-19C and 61% humidity. 11 days later I trimmed and jarred. Dank smell came through straight away.... it was a joke how quickly it arrived, really strong too.

I won’t be drying any other way from now on

Exactly bro, glad you tried it this round! There's many ways to do certain things but I think whole plant hang and dry trim is the proper way to dry and trim cannabis.
 
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lunarman

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Mar 13, 2017
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I use to grow autos and now I've changed to photos as I'm looking for exotic strains and I've learnt so much talking with very knowledgeable growers, testing things out and seeing results.

I'll start with environment. It is absolute key to keep your environment on point to get the best out of your plants. It's the best nutrient you can give your plants imo. I follow the vpd chart now (vapour pressure deficit) and my humidity doesn't go below 60% during flowering. I keep the humidity at 75-70% whole of veg 70-65% until week 5 of flower then drop its to 65-60 for the rest. I use to ramp mine down to 40% that's the worst thing you can do. If your humidity is as low as that your plants will transpire at a faster rate therefore they will drink more and won't use up the nutrients your giving them resulting in a deficiency. That's why I think a lot of autos to get a calcium OR magnesium deficiency because humidity is too low. (also longer periods of light might cause that) you might think having your humidity too high during flowering is gonna cause bud rot or Pm. Bud rot is 100% caused my stagnant air, every leaf should be moving slightly and you should have plenty of extraction and you could go up to 75% RH as long as your air flow/movement is good. Don't take my word for it read up on vpd and try it.

Stop wasting money on expensive nutrient lines. Im switching to jacks hydroponics 5-12-26 with the 321 formula Powder nutrients and it's so so cheap. I use to use advanced and canna nutrients but your paying for 80% water with bottled nutrients. Powder nutrients are the way forward! Jacks 5-12-26 calcium nitrate and Epsom salt is used from seed to finish at 3 gram per gallon of Jacks 2 grams per gallon of calcium nitrate and 1 gram per gallon of epsom salts from start to finish because the element ratios are so finely tuned you don't need to add more or less throughout the growth cycle and there's no bullshit claims saying this will give you massive yeilds and buds dripping in resin. Check out this video on jacks nutrients
If your tired of getting that hay smell with your bud try this..
When I use to grow autos and drying my method was to wet trim and hang, then I tried paper bag method (which was okay) but I was still left with fresh cut grass slightly hay smell and no terps whatsoever.. The best way to dry is to do a whole plant hang with large fan leaves taken off for 10 days at 60% humidity and 17C. THEN trim your bud and jar it up. I guarantee you that your bud will be so much more flavourful and louder compared to wet trim. I changed to dry trimming and I've never looked back and everyone else who has changed to dry trimming has said the same.

Just wanted to give you some info on what I've learnt myself and from other very talented and knowledgeable growers. If I hadn't of learnt this I would still be growing same way producing shit bud. I still have tons to learn but if you just stick with these methods I assure that you will have great results.
Thanks for taking time to post up some knowledge sharing content.

Interesting what you think about RH and flowering. I read that you only need to keep in the VPD greenzone until you hit flowering and then you don't need to. I live in an arid climate so I have to run a big ass full house console humidifier in my tent just to get over 40%. I can go higher but I can't go to high or it will affect the garage my tent is in. So I try to maintain 50% and 20C during sprout/seedling/veg. I was going to reduce the RH during flower though.

And my last couple of harvests have been meh when it comes to dank smell/terps after some curing. I'm going to try the full plant hang to dry and then dry trim it. I have a couple of plants I can do that too right away.
 
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Think

Outside the box
May 7, 2013
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Thanks for taking time to post up some knowledge sharing content.

Interesting what you think about RH and flowering. I read that you only need to keep in the VPD greenzone until you hit flowering and then you don't need to. I live in an arid climate so I have to run a big ass full house console humidifier in my tent just to get over 40%. I can go higher but I can't go to high or it will affect the garage my tent is in. So I try to maintain 50% and 20C during sprout/seedling/veg. I was going to reduce the RH during flower though.

And my last couple of harvests have been meh when it comes to dank smell/terps after some curing. I'm going to try the full plant hang to dry and then dry trim it. I have a couple of plants I can do that too right away.

Yeah man stick to vpd until ya chop! Don't take my word for it though, try it!

Yes you won't look back after whole plant hang and then dry trim bro
 

Simplicio

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Aug 19, 2017
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I use to grow autos and now I've changed to photos as I'm looking for exotic strains and I've learnt so much talking with very knowledgeable growers, testing things out and seeing results.

I'll start with environment. It is absolute key to keep your environment on point to get the best out of your plants. It's the best nutrient you can give your plants imo. I follow the vpd chart now (vapour pressure deficit) and my humidity doesn't go below 60% during flowering. I keep the humidity at 75-70% whole of veg 70-65% until week 5 of flower then drop its to 65-60 for the rest. I use to ramp mine down to 40% that's the worst thing you can do. If your humidity is as low as that your plants will transpire at a faster rate therefore they will drink more and won't use up the nutrients your giving them resulting in a deficiency. That's why I think a lot of autos to get a calcium OR magnesium deficiency because humidity is too low. (also longer periods of light might cause that) you might think having your humidity too high during flowering is gonna cause bud rot or Pm. Bud rot is 100% caused my stagnant air, every leaf should be moving slightly and you should have plenty of extraction and you could go up to 75% RH as long as your air flow/movement is good. Don't take my word for it read up on vpd and try it.

Stop wasting money on expensive nutrient lines. Im switching to jacks hydroponics 5-12-26 with the 321 formula Powder nutrients and it's so so cheap. I use to use advanced and canna nutrients but your paying for 80% water with bottled nutrients. Powder nutrients are the way forward! Jacks 5-12-26 calcium nitrate and Epsom salt is used from seed to finish at 3 gram per gallon of Jacks 2 grams per gallon of calcium nitrate and 1 gram per gallon of epsom salts from start to finish because the element ratios are so finely tuned you don't need to add more or less throughout the growth cycle and there's no bullshit claims saying this will give you massive yeilds and buds dripping in resin. Check out this video on jacks nutrients
If your tired of getting that hay smell with your bud try this..
When I use to grow autos and drying my method was to wet trim and hang, then I tried paper bag method (which was okay) but I was still left with fresh cut grass slightly hay smell and no terps whatsoever.. The best way to dry is to do a whole plant hang with large fan leaves taken off for 10 days at 60% humidity and 17C. THEN trim your bud and jar it up. I guarantee you that your bud will be so much more flavourful and louder compared to wet trim. I changed to dry trimming and I've never looked back and everyone else who has changed to dry trimming has said the same.

Just wanted to give you some info on what I've learnt myself and from other very talented and knowledgeable growers. If I hadn't of learnt this I would still be growing same way producing shit bud. I still have tons to learn but if you just stick with these methods I assure that you will have great results.
Excellent advice.
Following VPD guidelines creates a jungle of happy growth.
Bud rot is not an issue either.
Cheap nutes without worthless teas and elixirs is the way to go.

But I'm having trouble understanding why dry trimming is better.
Obviously it's impossible to argue with success, but I'd like to understand the theory behind WHY dry trimming is better before trying it.
Do you have an opinion on why dry trimming is better.
 
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lunarman

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Mar 13, 2017
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If your humidity is as low as that your plants will transpire at a faster rate therefore they will drink more and won't use up the nutrients your giving them resulting in a deficiency. That's why I think a lot of autos to get a calcium OR magnesium deficiency because humidity is too low. (also longer periods of light might cause that) you might think having your humidity too high during flowering is gonna cause bud rot or Pm. Bud rot is 100% caused my stagnant air, every leaf should be moving slightly and you should have plenty of extraction and you could go up to 75% RH as long as your air flow/movement is good. Don't take my word for it read up on vpd and try it.
So I'm confused on this. If my RH is 50% during veg and flower (which is what I'm currently maintaining now and not sure I want to increase because of what too much humidity does to the garage structure my tent is in - if its around 70% in the tent we see wetness on the outside of the garage and I can't do much about my exhaust to eliminate that) then the plants will transpire and they will drink more. Well I use autopots that have gravity reservoir irrigation lines and the wicking from the bottom tray action. So in my mind I think I want my plants to drink more from the tray because that means they will pull more water and more nutrients from the reservoir. So maybe with autopots you actually want to encourage more drinking with a lower RH like 50%.
 

budman1

ol' man burning 1
Aug 5, 2018
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183
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I use to grow autos and now I've changed to photos as I'm looking for exotic strains and I've learnt so much talking with very knowledgeable growers, testing things out and seeing results.

I'll start with environment. It is absolute key to keep your environment on point to get the best out of your plants. It's the best nutrient you can give your plants imo. I follow the vpd chart now (vapour pressure deficit) and my humidity doesn't go below 60% during flowering. I keep the humidity at 75-70% whole of veg 70-65% until week 5 of flower then drop its to 65-60 for the rest. I use to ramp mine down to 40% that's the worst thing you can do. If your humidity is as low as that your plants will transpire at a faster rate therefore they will drink more and won't use up the nutrients your giving them resulting in a deficiency. That's why I think a lot of autos to get a calcium OR magnesium deficiency because humidity is too low. (also longer periods of light might cause that) you might think having your humidity too high during flowering is gonna cause bud rot or Pm. Bud rot is 100% caused my stagnant air, every leaf should be moving slightly and you should have plenty of extraction and you could go up to 75% RH as long as your air flow/movement is good. Don't take my word for it read up on vpd and try it.

Stop wasting money on expensive nutrient lines. Im switching to jacks hydroponics 5-12-26 with the 321 formula Powder nutrients and it's so so cheap. I use to use advanced and canna nutrients but your paying for 80% water with bottled nutrients. Powder nutrients are the way forward! Jacks 5-12-26 calcium nitrate and Epsom salt is used from seed to finish at 3 gram per gallon of Jacks 2 grams per gallon of calcium nitrate and 1 gram per gallon of epsom salts from start to finish because the element ratios are so finely tuned you don't need to add more or less throughout the growth cycle and there's no bullshit claims saying this will give you massive yeilds and buds dripping in resin. Check out this video on jacks nutrients
If your tired of getting that hay smell with your bud try this..
When I use to grow autos and drying my method was to wet trim and hang, then I tried paper bag method (which was okay) but I was still left with fresh cut grass slightly hay smell and no terps whatsoever.. The best way to dry is to do a whole plant hang with large fan leaves taken off for 10 days at 60% humidity and 17C. THEN trim your bud and jar it up. I guarantee you that your bud will be so much more flavourful and louder compared to wet trim. I changed to dry trimming and I've never looked back and everyone else who has changed to dry trimming has said the same.

Just wanted to give you some info on what I've learnt myself and from other very talented and knowledgeable growers. If I hadn't of learnt this I would still be growing same way producing shit bud. I still have tons to learn but if you just stick with these methods I assure that you will have great results.
I use to grow autos and now I've changed to photos as I'm looking for exotic strains and I've learnt so much talking with very knowledgeable growers, testing things out and seeing results.

I'll start with environment. It is absolute key to keep your environment on point to get the best out of your plants. It's the best nutrient you can give your plants imo. I follow the vpd chart now (vapour pressure deficit) and my humidity doesn't go below 60% during flowering. I keep the humidity at 75-70% whole of veg 70-65% until week 5 of flower then drop its to 65-60 for the rest. I use to ramp mine down to 40% that's the worst thing you can do. If your humidity is as low as that your plants will transpire at a faster rate therefore they will drink more and won't use up the nutrients your giving them resulting in a deficiency. That's why I think a lot of autos to get a calcium OR magnesium deficiency because humidity is too low. (also longer periods of light might cause that) you might think having your humidity too high during flowering is gonna cause bud rot or Pm. Bud rot is 100% caused my stagnant air, every leaf should be moving slightly and you should have plenty of extraction and you could go up to 75% RH as long as your air flow/movement is good. Don't take my word for it read up on vpd and try it.

Stop wasting money on expensive nutrient lines. Im switching to jacks hydroponics 5-12-26 with the 321 formula Powder nutrients and it's so so cheap. I use to use advanced and canna nutrients but your paying for 80% water with bottled nutrients. Powder nutrients are the way forward! Jacks 5-12-26 calcium nitrate and Epsom salt is used from seed to finish at 3 gram per gallon of Jacks 2 grams per gallon of calcium nitrate and 1 gram per gallon of epsom salts from start to finish because the element ratios are so finely tuned you don't need to add more or less throughout the growth cycle and there's no bullshit claims saying this will give you massive yeilds and buds dripping in resin. Check out this video on jacks nutrients
If your tired of getting that hay smell with your bud try this..
When I use to grow autos and drying my method was to wet trim and hang, then I tried paper bag method (which was okay) but I was still left with fresh cut grass slightly hay smell and no terps whatsoever.. The best way to dry is to do a whole plant hang with large fan leaves taken off for 10 days at 60% humidity and 17C. THEN trim your bud and jar it up. I guarantee you that your bud will be so much more flavourful and louder compared to wet trim. I changed to dry trimming and I've never looked back and everyone else who has changed to dry trimming has said the same.

Just wanted to give you some info on what I've learnt myself and from other very talented and knowledgeable growers. If I hadn't of learnt this I would still be growing same way producing shit bud. I still have tons to learn but if you just stick with these methods I assure that you will have great results.
I"m still having trouble understanding rh, and how do you adjust,smoked 1 still trying to understand, that's what I need growing inside first time thanks dude
 
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