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Canna Coco and High frequency fertigation

Zaaboot

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Thank you both @Zaaboot and @blue ,I only Need to understand where my P deficiency and N toxicity come from,I still have not used any calmag product,only tap water.And the runoff Is lower than input,about 0.1 EC lower...I cannot get my head around this!

My feed range Is +-1 EC
My pH Is under 6.0 and manimum 5,65-70
Maybe my lamp Is set too weak at 40%,It Is an attis 200watts lumatek.My temps are in range though
Do you have any pictures - that would help a lot. how old are they? 40% of a 200w light seems low but that depends on everything else - the EC in and out seem totally fine and if there is circa .1 variance then that is no drama. The PH plays a huge part in this a well, the range for the various nutrient uptake is huge so getting teh sweet spot helps - most people stick to one PH throughout the grow, I have found letting it drift slightly but within range works best for me.
It starts at 5.8 when going in the res, and when I add tap water it floats up slowly, when it reaches 6.4 I pop it back down again to 5.8 - it is very likely in my mind and total nonsense, but in my little head it makes me think the greater the variance within range - the more chance the plants have to take up all the nutrients available. Take it with a pinch of salt as I have no science to back it, but it works for me
 

draxcel

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Do you have any pictures - that would help a lot. how old are they? 40% of a 200w light seems low but that depends on everything else - the EC in and out seem totally fine and if there is circa .1 variance then that is no drama. The PH plays a huge part in this a well, the range for the various nutrient uptake is huge so getting teh sweet spot helps - most people stick to one PH throughout the grow, I have found letting it drift slightly but within range works best for me.
It starts at 5.8 when going in the res, and when I add tap water it floats up slowly, when it reaches 6.4 I pop it back down again to 5.8 - it is very likely in my mind and total nonsense, but in my little head it makes me think the greater the variance within range - the more chance the plants have to take up all the nutrients available. Take it with a pinch of salt as I have no science to back it, but it works for me
It Is day +-43 and this Is the plant with the most N tox symptoms and P def.
EC Is in range.But I am getting this grey tip,blotches and yellowing from Bottom in the other plants too,all of Them,and since I got Blue or dark green hues It Is absolutely a P def.What could It Be ruling out pH,temperatures and medium?My tap water and fertilizers?I have this same ploblem for the second Coco grow now.Last One was the same issue but stronger.
 

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Zaaboot

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hey hey - I could be way off but I think at the early stage of flowering the plant goes nuts on P and K, when there is not enough it shows on the bottom as yours are, so you could just add some PK, Canna have some if you are going to stick with their line, I use Buddhas tree which has a different ratio, and this run I am going to use Rokzbastic just for a change, but either way, they will all have no N and plenty of PK and to go around for the plant. From what I can see they look good other than that which is a minor
 

draxcel

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hey hey - I could be way off but I think at the early stage of flowering the plant goes nuts on P and K, when there is not enough it shows on the bottom as yours are, so you could just add some PK, Canna have some if you are going to stick with their line, I use Buddhas tree which has a different ratio, and this run I am going to use Rokzbastic just for a change, but either way, they will all have no N and plenty of PK and to go around for the plant. From what I can see they look good other than that which is a minor
Yes I got their pk and used It once,but It is advised by Them only for One week later on in flowering,and to be used very small amounts too.I don't know how to use It/dose It because their official chart does include It only for One week :'(
 

Zaaboot

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PK is used sparingly, I add about 0.5ml ---> 1ml per litre and let it run for about two two three weeks and tend to start about a week in to flower - do note that it is not Canna that I use - I used the whole canna range many many moons ago so do not remember specifics, butI am certain that I used their PK for more than a week (it would have been either in coco/pebbles or NFT in cubes can't remember)
 

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PK is used sparingly, I add about 0.5ml ---> 1ml per litre and let it run for about two two three weeks and tend to start about a week in to flower - do note that it is not Canna that I use - I used the whole canna range many many moons ago so do not remember specifics, butI am certain that I used their PK for more than a week (it would have been either in coco/pebbles or NFT in cubes can't remember)
Should be ok to add a bit then,I am Always worried to destroy the npk ratios
 
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Zaaboot

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just go easy with it and it should be all good :cheers:
 

Tony9d9ct

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Should be ok to add a bit then,I am Always worried to destroy the npk ratios
Drax my tap water is hard and has 130ppm so I just don't add calmag. I was told to add gypsum to add calcium without upping the nitrogen. I'm going to give that a shot this coming run, but for now I've only used calmag to buffer and early stages of veg. I had some yellowing like you have, and it went away when I stopped adding calmag. I'm on a halo ring drain to waste setup I made pretty cheap, and watering 3x a day at about 75-80% strength of recommended nutrients.

It appears you're asking how to dilute the nutrients to get to that point where you're not using full strength. I just mix a bit less. Don't throw the whole scoop in if that makes sense. I always use straight tap water, add my base nutrients, check ph, add any boost or whatever extras, then adjust ph. My current grow so you can see the setup. Cost me about 160.
 
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