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Dialing In MEGA CROP for Auto's

WildBill

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The temperature in my grow room is 75-80 degrees I had just watered and pots were all dry. I only water/feed as needed- about every 3 days. I always pick up my pots to feel the weight to decide if watering is needed. The only thing I have changed in my last two grows is MC nutrients. I’m wondering if I’m not getting the mixture right. I used the calculator on GL website. I’m so frustrated as the seeds from ILG are not cheap. I’m attaching pic from some of my past grows over the last 8 years. Almost everything I have learned about growing autos came from this site and the awesome help From several members.
You do well! I was grasping at straws with just pics.
George is right about the chart on the site. What I saw there didn't match what was said here and here had pics! LOL!
Guess which one I followed? LOL!
 

pop22

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I'm sure that would work also, but I've found no need to unless the plant was really rootbound, then I hack it up into chunks and break them down, mix in a little fresh soil and pop them right back into the pot. I figure I've already established good soil lif. Hell some of my auto pots had worms in them even when I fed MC and they survived just fine.

Oh and I flush the soil first with 0ppm ro water and then use recharge on it. That will be good enough? I feel like breaking up the soil wud make it easier for the roots to go digging through the soil finding there new home.
 

NorthernLights_420

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I just cut out the stump and replant in the hole. I have an old, serrated kitchen knife and I saw close around the stump and leave the majority of the roots. The roots are dense with nutrients and breakdown quickly. Been doing it this way for three years now and it works like a charm!
What about in coco coir? Is it the same as soil? People just do the same? That was mainly why I was asking cuz I am starting my first coco grow.
 

Mañ'O'Green

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HELP!! this is my second grow using MC. The only thing that has changed is the nutrient. My last grow was Girl Scout cookies from ILG and this grow is Heavyweight fast vast, ILG Goldleaf, and GSC (again). All of my indoor grows are autos.
They have all turned out like little cabbages. There is no main stem. I had to throw out the previous grow of Girl Scout cookies as for the very first time in eight years I had bud rot and mold. This grow is headed in the same direction. The photos are all 3 strains at 4 weeks.
Nute - MC v3 single
Lighting Spiderfarm led
Soil ff happy frog
5-gallon pots
I previously used the BioBiz nutrient line for years and have never come across what I’m looking at on these last two growers. Any thoughts suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
It looks to me to be a combination of genetics with too much blue light for that strain? Dial down the blue if you can.

I avoid getting my plants wet. I think it just opens you to potential problems.

Did you sanitize your grow space after your last mold and rot break out? It can leave a higher than normal spore load in your space that will increase the chance of it happening again. Unfortunately the spores are all around all of the time. You just want to keep the count as low as possible. Bleach, H²O² and elbow grease are good for cleaning surfaces. I have a UVC lamp that I use in my grow space now after each grow. I hope it gets what I don't.
 

NorthernLights_420

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I have read online of people running high ppms. I never understood it. Maybe different nute companies or photoperiod big plants can take more nutes? Idk. But I have seen growers well past 600 ppm. Not using the same stuff as me of course.
 

NorthernLights_420

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I do like @pop22 and cut the stalk of the previous plant as low into the growing medium as I can and the plant another plant. I don’t worry about it as the bacteria will eventually eat the remaining roots and make a richer growing medium. I do periodically add Recharge or MammothP to my medium.
I run recharge also with mega crop. How often do you feed with recharge? I do when I remember or am too lazy to mix nutes that day or in a rush.
 

retireandgrowpot

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It looks to me to be a combination of genetics with too much blue light for that strain? Dial down the blue if you can.

I avoid getting my plants wet. I think it just opens you to potential problems.

Did you sanitize your grow space after your last mold and rot break out? It can leave a higher than normal spore load in your space that will increase the chance of it happening again. Unfortunately the spores are all around all of the time. You just want to keep the count as low as possible. Bleach, H²O² and elbow grease are good for cleaning surfaces. I have a UVC lamp that I use in my grow space now after each grow. I hope it gets what I don't.
Yes, I shut room down for 3 month after the first grow and completely scrubbed my room down with bleach. I have always been hyper vigilant about cleanliness in my room. Thanks for the tips and I will check out the UVC lamp.
 

Simplicio

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I have read online of people running high ppms. I never understood it. Maybe different nute companies or photoperiod big plants can take more nutes? Idk. But I have seen growers well past 600 ppm. Not using the same stuff as me of course.
I get nute burn at around 1.0 EC in DWC while following VPD chart. (Does VPD need less fertilizer?)
Some strains can't even take that.
I've got an Anesia Purple Domina that can't take EC=0.8 at the 5 week mark.
Its equal age tentmate is thriving on that strength.

Not only must I use less fertilizer, but then it must often be reduced after mid-flower to avoid leaf crud.
For me, less fertilizer leads to happier, healthier plants.
 

WildBill

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I get nute burn at around 1.0 EC in DWC while following VPD chart. (Does VPD need less fertilizer?)
Some strains can't even take that.
I've got an Anesia Purple Domina that can't take EC=0.8 at the 5 week mark.
Its equal age tentmate is thriving on that strength.

Not only must I use less fertilizer, but then it must often be reduced after mid-flower to avoid leaf crud.
For me, less fertilizer leads to happier, healthier plants.
Document what works for you on different strains, so you can repeat and/or improve.
 

NorthernLights_420

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I get nute burn at around 1.0 EC in DWC while following VPD chart. (Does VPD need less fertilizer?)
Some strains can't even take that.
I've got an Anesia Purple Domina that can't take EC=0.8 at the 5 week mark.
Its equal age tentmate is thriving on that strength.

Not only must I use less fertilizer, but then it must often be reduced after mid-flower to avoid leaf crud.
For me, less fertilizer leads to happier, healthier plants.
That's not a bad thing tho. Less nutes means less money being wasted on nutes.
 
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