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Instatransplant Cups & Pots pictorial and Root Restriction Stunting

Bigg Al

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This is a great idea, so just to clarify, when you see the roots through the windows etc and it looks like it's time to transplant, you just make a hole in the soil in the new pot and drop the solo cup in?


I make the hole with the 2nd cup, I make the slots on the side, cut the bottom out place 2nd cup over it and put in pot. That way your hole is there and the transplant is easy, just pop right in already hole.
 

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Put an empty cup in the dirt and back fill it around the cup.
IMG_6768.JPG


Use your fingers to tamp the dirt around the cup.
IMG_6771.JPG


Carefully pull the cup and then replace with your instatransplant cup.
IMG_6770.JPG
 

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I just came across this older thread and thought I would provide an update to this method. It has helped me grow better autos, as well as several other people who were unsettled about successfully transplanting a plant that would very likely not enjoy being transplanted. This is a great method, and it works 100% of the time.

I like to put some mycorrhizae in the bottom of the cavity / hole.

I start all of my plants this way — both photos and autos.










“Tyranny anywhere is a threat to freedom everywhere.” — someone awesome
 

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Hi guys, im going to try out this method for my next batch (fastbuds gorillia glue) when watering do you take the inner cup out of the outter cup to let it drain or do you put drain holes in the bottom of the outter cup?
 

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Hi guys, im going to try out this method for my next batch (fastbuds gorillia glue) when watering do you take the inner cup out of the outter cup to let it drain or do you put drain holes in the bottom of the outter cup?
Put drain holes in the bottom of the inner cup(the one with the side slots cut into it), and the outer cup, until you do your transplant
 

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I know i am often lacking in space in my setup and I can't fit as many 7" pots in my setup as I want, so if I start a bunch of regular non femmed seeds I simply cannot fit enough pots in my small space. I started using "instatransplant" pots a few seasons ago and had excellent results using the technique. I found that you would get little to no stunting when growing an auto in a 6" pot for 21 days. A few advantages come with an instatransplant pot. First it allows a totally stress free transplant. Extremely low risk of shifting dirt, and no risk of a poorly timed transplant, as the "windows" in the side of the pots allow you to monitor your root development, so a transplant too late or too early is super easy to avoid, by keeping an eye on root development.

This 6" instatransplant pot had an autoultimate growing in it for 21 days and then was transplanted to the outdoors.
View attachment 873873 View attachment 873874

Here she is at the end of her life.
View attachment 873875View attachment 873876

So for this application the instatransplant pots work extremely well!! I started using the instatransplant 16oz cups for a different reason. 2 seasons indoor ago, thanks to the advice of master stunter @arty zan, I was showed the way. With his advice i found that keeping roots restricted in cups for a certain amount of time would root restrict and I would end up with smaller plants.
This is the last thing that most guys would want, except for the few with limited vertical and unable to grow tall plants as a result of their vertically challenged space. For me, it opened up a whole slew of strain options that I would have been previously unable to grow due to height. I also found that cramming in smaller plants and focusing main colas to keep nodes stacked and plants stout(I also believe that close proximity LEDS with IR spectrum play a roll in overall height and node spacing), I was able to increase overall space versus yield ratios, along with getting the benefit of being able to grow 7-8 strains at a time which increases variety immensely!!

How much stunting would i need to do to keep plants in check with my space? There is several factors I needed to take into account. First of all breeders quoted sizes, and also grow journal results are taken into account. If DP's auto night queen is quoted to 36" and i need to have plant at a maximum of 26", then I need to do something, or she will outgrow the space(assuming i do a perfect job growing her out, and the plants genetics are just right for a big lady).
I also keep an eye out on early growth rates as well as root development, and take those into account. If a plant is growing slowly, and after 14 days(especially if into preflower) she is not very large, I will often jump the gun and plant her then, even if she is supposed to be a large(r) strain.
If early plant growth is quick and I feel the plant could reach typical quoted sizes, I use this as a general guideline for plants that preflower at 15-21 days.

1-7 days contained in the 16oz cup = no effect on size
8-11 days contained in the 16oz cup = minimal effect on size
12-16 days contained in the 16oz cup = moderate effect on size
17-21 days contained in the 16oz cup = major effect
22 days+ contained in the 16oz cup = maximum effect, that should only be reserved for the latest preflowering plants or for the largest plants you want to greatly reduce the size.


Making the instatransplant cups is super easy....all you need is an ultra sharp knife like an X-acto blade and some plastic cups.

Step 1: Drilling bottom root access holes
ahh one thing i forgot to do when taking pics for this tutorial. Before you do anything else, it is easiest to drill your bottom holes for easy root access and drainage. I forgot to do this step for the pics, but what i do is put a whole stack up cups together and then i use a drill with a 1/4" drill bit and drill a series of 4 holes in the bottom of the stack of cups. If you have a drill press this task is even easier, but a regular drill will work fine as well. The reason i do this as step one, is because you lose a certain amount of structural integrity once you cut the window out and the cups can buckle. Easier to drill first thing.

Tools of the trade(also need a drill and a 1/4" drill bit not shown in pic), ready for action!! A redneck razor blade and a cup ready to become insta!!
View attachment 873881

Step 2 : Horizontal Cuts
Cut a horizontal cup around an inch wide, at the bottom and top of the cup
View attachment 873883

Step 3: Vertical Cut
Use you blade for a vertical cut. Start at the corner of your horizontal cut
View attachment 873884

Slice down the cup, so the cut meets the corner of your lower vertical cut.
View attachment 873885

Folding back the one side will make the second cut a snap.
View attachment 873886

Repeat the process 4 more times and you will end up with this.....
View attachment 873887

Once you have made a few of these cups, and have full control over your knife you might want to give the banana slot technique a go instead of the 4 slot technique. This might be a bit hard to explain. All I do is start near the top using a vertical cut into the cup, and once you get near the bottom of the cup you can rotate the angle of the blade creating a small circular cut, which when done right will allow you to be cutting vertically back up the cup toward the top, and ready for another small circular cut to finish the "slot". Once you master this technique, speed of making these is vastly increased.

Root restricted for 21 days DP auto Euforia
View attachment 873900

"Not for a Free Weed country or continent, but for a Free Weed World, Unite and Grow, for a Better, Kinder Planet"
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So anyway enough of the preamble.

you purposely reduce container size early to stunt plants from what I'm reading. With the goal of having more smaller plants instead of less bigger ones.

Curious if you observed if autos kick in to flowering faster if you reduce the container size within the first 30 days or so. The idea being the earlier roots hit the container boundary the faster they will kick in to flowering. Have you ever noticed that?
 

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So anyway enough of the preamble.

you purposely reduce container size early to stunt plants from what I'm reading. With the goal of having more smaller plants instead of less bigger ones.

Curious if you observed if autos kick in to flowering faster if you reduce the container size within the first 30 days or so. The idea being the earlier roots hit the container boundary the faster they will kick in to flowering. Have you ever noticed that?
Yes i purposely restrict root base to reduce overall plant size to focus on main cola flower. I do this because of a low ceiling grow, and to increase overall variety and overall yield for the space. Ive found that even a 20 day root restriction has an impact on overall size in my grows.

Not all insta pots are for reducing size though...for my outdoor i want them to be as big as possible, so i use larger insta pots and transplant stress free to get every bit of size out of the plant that i can. Same method, but without the on purpose root restricting.

Flower trigger - i have not seen any significant difference in either flower trigger or flower duration. Ive read some folks saying that smaller pots reduce time, but i have never seen it, at least not using root restriction for 20 days and then transplanting into 1.5-2 gallon pots.
 

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I just came across this older thread and thought I would provide an update to this method. It has helped me grow better autos, as well as several other people who were unsettled about successfully transplanting a plant that would very likely not enjoy being transplanted. This is a great method, and it works 100% of the time.

I like to put some mycorrhizae in the bottom of the cavity / hole.

I start all of my plants this way — both photos and autos.










“Tyranny anywhere is a threat to freedom everywhere.” — someone awesome
Thanks bud...great to hear its working prime for you. So far i have not heard of this technique failing anyone that has tried it.
 

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Yes i purposely restrict root base to reduce overall plant size to focus on main cola flower. I do this because of a low ceiling grow, and to increase overall variety and overall yield for the space. Ive found that even a 20 day root restriction has an impact on overall size in my grows.

Not all insta pots are for reducing size though...for my outdoor i want them to be as big as possible, so i use larger insta pots and transplant stress free to get every bit of size out of the plant that i can. Same method, but without the on purpose root restricting.

Flower trigger - i have not seen any significant difference in either flower trigger or flower duration. Ive read some folks saying that smaller pots reduce time, but i have never seen it, at least not using root restriction for 20 days and then transplanting into 1.5-2 gallon pots.
Too bad you cant confirm that theory. I would think it would be something you could see if you did a test with a strain in a 1g and another in a 5g. Not only size difference but speed too. I have a grow going now but all are in 1g containers. Next time I'll include a test of 2 beans same strain with 1 in a large and 1 in a small container.
 

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Too bad you cant confirm that theory. I would think it would be something you could see if you did a test with a strain in a 1g and another in a 5g. Not only size difference but speed too. I have a grow going now but all are in 1g containers. Next time I'll include a test of 2 beans same strain with 1 in a large and 1 in a small container.
the problem lies with genetic variance. Sure you can guess, but unless you are pulling clones there is no real comparative experiment to base grounds on.
 
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