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My "Lava" trilogy (and more...)

Egzoset

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More thoughts...


Except for their enlarged holes the units on left are completely shielded magnetically, the ones on top got 21/32" (dia.) apertures, the other below is a better fit for my HerbalAire v2.1 crucible (+ bent Arizer Solo Glass Tube) at 5/8" instead.

Inductance can be reduced simultaneously by using heavier wire gauge (hence less turns per coil, etc.) in addition to removing layers to the laminated core structure. Which makes me think a single coil of litz wire wound around those supporting poles in an alternating fashion (to reverse polarity of a next pole and so on) might suffice as a preliminary test.

:coffee2:

Magnetic material was much harder to cut though i'd be curious to compare the benefits, eventually...

Also, what frequency range would correspond to an efficient transfer of energy while generating as little heat-loss in the coils laminated assembly as possible?? Or should it be powder/paste? Hummm...

Questions, questions!...

Anyway, lets mention pure alcohol (94 %) did easily dissolve some laquer coatings, yet acetone or else may be required in difficult cases i figure.

Good day, have fun!! :peace:
 

Egzoset

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Still some more...


On the left we find an individual compact coil while on the right side it's sort of distributed all around instead.

Each left-type of coil can pack as much as 12 ~ 15 turns it seems, using coils in pairs for each of the 4 phases that's 24 ~ 30 turns per phase. In any case i notice in practical terms the individual coils scenario should prove easier to implement...





ADDENDUM



Eureka!


Wow! I think i just found a perfect magnetic flux concentrator paste for my application in mind!! No need to name companies specifically, this YouTube video about "soft magnetic composites" and other "magnetodielectric materials" (in addition to complementary reading) simply convinced me if that's good enough for metalurgy crucibles (melting metals!) then i guess i'd get to choose any number of poles i want, provided i can shape some chunk of paste accordingly.

Once cured these products would harden, i believe, and since it doesn't conduct stray currents like metals i conclude that's why it won't tend to heat up as much as one.

That's exactly what is required here for all i can tell, so far...

Yay! No tedious core resizing to perform anymore...


:coffee2:

But how many poles then???

M'well, i found i could fit as much as 7 AA-type batteries under an IH assembly build from refurbished stepper motor parts...


...though i'd want no more than 5 because 2 must be removed in order to make room for electronics.

The configurations i got in mind initially are either matching other tripod-shaped features considered previously, or even something completely novel as i read about it only a couple days ago and all i can remember of it has to do with some symetric 5-lines "Pentagon Star" custom driver. So... Here's my favourite selection at the moment:

a) 9 poles, 3 batteries, 3 coils per battery
b) 5 poles, 5 batteries, 1 coil per battery

My intuition says option "a" is spot-on, in terms of battery pack and also of mature/available 3-phase technology.

:mrgreen:

Lets recapitulate. At this point i got magnetically shielded coil(s) support and the chances are if i can get my hands on a suitable magnetic-paste then i'd have a proper 9 poles stator too. Apply optional lacquer/varnish once cured, wind up individual coils (optionally linked 3-by-3) and then close that IH driver assembly before reaching out for its IH (power) driver!...



My bet is that would be a nice experiment to perform.

Good day, have fun!! :peace:
 
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Egzoset

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New "Plan-B" still going strong...


Well, this should be perfect in Curie alloy!!

:peace:





ADDENDUM




Evalutation of a shorter PVC extension tube went fine using the weaker lighters shown on the left side, those gentler tasty sessions may have resulted from a lack of line-of-sight control, etc.

A metal screen previously inserted into the Plastic-on-Wood mating end has been moved further inside my pipe's handle, right below the "PinHole" conditioning aperture located under my thumb. This was done to improve operating range for some teflon straw terminating the shorter extension, though i prefer the larger P-o-W mating system in terms of flow restriction, eveidently...
 
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Egzoset

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Great news!

I've reverted to the usual/previous bowl layout or so and i can say 1 week later that this is what people like to call a "Game-Changer", at least for me:


For the 1st time in months i had 5 consecutive satisfying exhales this morning, irritation was never avoided in such a spectacular manner before. This reconcilliated me with butane and little condensation droplets were found after i was done, by the way....

The tiny 2 $ CAD "UFO" shaped thing with 17 holes acting as heat-exchanger conduits, while the convex profile "defocusses" radiative energy (i would say) has worked wonders for me. Combined with a brass screen there's more thermal mass in the core now than i evaluated before and my recent observations appear to confirm it was long needed. Or more precisely it seems the layout represents an optimisation compared to my older glass deflector + aluminium shield scenario...

The image below shows how i wrapped together such a brass screen, 2 mm SiC Top-of-Bowl puck and UFO whatever...


Ideal thickness would be 3 mm for the Top-of-Bowl SiC Puck and 4 mm for the Front Puck which has to be opaque i believe. I'm a bit short on SiC right now but the next revision should fix that i hope.

In any case the hollow tube in dark blue only serves as support for my photo session, ignore that detail.

...

Ritual got nicer. I pre-heat with a blue "jet" flame at 1st, then i switch to a BicTronic although i'd much prefer my Xikar or Lotus if they didn't fail long ago... I don't like yellow "candle" flames very much but this has renewed my appreciation of them! "Plan-B" looks good, i can't wait to see what "Plan-A" is like once integrated into an IH experiment! But i'd need Curie alloys then... No joy there yet.

:coffee2:

M'well back to the veranda while a couple sunrays remain!... :mrgreen:

Good day, have fun!! :peace:
 

Egzoset

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Finally...


Well i've got my "Plan-B" successfully revised i shall conclude, IMO it's about time to focus on "Plan-A"!!

:shooty:

But there's no "Plan-A" without the appropriate metal alloys to begin with, not to mention i should attempt to evaluate target temperatures and this would happen to be more challenge than i'm prepared to handle... So i suppose if i add the water droplet manually once enough terpernes are saved then it should be possible/desirable to implement some hybrid consumption mode providing butane-free inlet hot-stream release/transport during the main inhalation phase. This would be my heat-source in CD-ROM format, the LavaDisc:



The idea is to maximize transit time so fresh air becomes properly thermalized before it reaches a central axis collector, under my cannabic bowl or some mating connector, for example... Maybe i can even stack 2! Or 3?...

In any case there's going to be a cheap/affordable IH (cooker) drive under and that's around 1.3 Kilo-Watts, as i recall. No limitations on power here! The problem with a LavaWand scenario is i might want to reshape a drive's planar IH coil... While this comes cheap even in local stores, to the point there's many actually. It's just 1 phase/1 coil but a time-tested technology/implementation, too bad if i must assume the risk of destroying it by accident - not to mention high-voltage can be lethal. Better think rationally!!

As a matter of fact i found an alternative to popular IH cookers with their flat coils, it's from the hair salon industry (130 °C in 4 seconds!): Hot Rollers heated by induction. But the kit will cost 400 $ on the Northern continent while my IH cooker is below a hundred bucks and it's been around for quite a while; if i must keep expenses down then my LavaDisc concept seems to be necessary but that already costs ~230 $ CAD in itself and i'd need to find out how to cut through a thick IH fry pan!


Overall that's not far from that alternative's 400 $ US price tag, the later won't accept a LavaDisc but i'm confident its deep 50 mm (inside dia.) IH pod would prove quite valuable with my LavaWand concept instead. Since in the later case i'd only require tiny amounts of Curie alloy - which i still don't have handy, nonetheless.

Sometimes i start reasoning i'll even buy my alloys in powder form if only it could just support the correct Curie temperature. In the meantime my VG pipe works fine now but that's the end of the "Plan-B" road in this case, because the metal parts would interfere with Induction Heat prototyping/experimentations. I could simulate a pre-heated core but that's about it, that's no option if the IH elements can cause me to smoke wood after all. It's pretty close as it is with butane burning, the temperatures required in the core wouldn't be compatible. So "Plan-A" must find another support i'm afraid and the only thing i got in mind is the HA Crucible + Arizer Solo Glass Stem contraption as a hot metal ring covering the glass bowl should transfer heat to the vegetal load (through a glass wall), since it's radiative heat and being Infra-Red light i'd expect minimal delay considering the speed of light... So much for pre-heating, IH technology can turn metal red-hot in seconds and hence i'd like to experiment with Curie alloys in an attempt to tame down the potential power, just enough to avoid combustion.

...

The bowl itself can be made of a Curie alloy too, one that behaves thermostatically under magnetic excitation, below ~160 °C i would imagine. The intent is only to prepare the load while a water-potentialized convection-mode stream builds up nearby... The core feels more puzzling, in a LavaWand meant to support "Plan-B" there's a requirement for flame compatibility and hence this translates as potentially intense heat from those flames. A 4 mm thick Front-Puck made of Silicon-Carbide (SiC) cells (some sort of spongy filter structure for metalurgy) should be somewhat opaque to the radiative heat of a flame, that will help a great deal. In "Plan-A" mode this SiC layer will promote temporary heat conservation, while the core must get hot enough to compensate for a chain of lossy interfaces ahead which can be associated to temperature drops and heat-transmission delays. My intuition says i need a 3 mm thick SiC puck on the bowl side plus 1 brass screen... If i want the vaporisation temperature to be 192 °C at most, how hot does my core UFO element need to be??

Since i've only found 1 commercial product with thermostatic behavior (Demeyere ControlInduc IH pans @ 250 °C) then i must hope this will suffice. Or at least i've got to try so i know what to do next. How safe is aluminium @ 250 °C? Safe enough: they use it in a kitchen. Fine, but how high can it go? A wild guess, something close to 350°C. Hummm... Pure nickel (200/201) has a Curie temperature of 360 °C. Does pure nickel represent a health risk in the lungs path when heated to this exact temperature?...

As for custom-building i'm not utterly stimulated by the idea of facing trivial distractions when i can simply shop around. So if i don't find a Hot Rollers IH Pod at Walmart or Canadian Tire, Rona, etc., it's going to be a flat coil. A planar IH driver means i must think LavaDisc (or modding again!), but can i gamble on its thickness and hope that will implement radiative pre-heating through glass while a high-surface maze transfers heat to air for the final convective mode - with an opportunity to add a drop of water during the session for potentialization & moisturization of the (hot air) cannabic leaching carrier. The setup would include 3 items: 1 3rd-party IH driver (cooker), 1 LavaDisc-based "Docking Station" and 1 LavaWand to fit in (with a "Plan-B" otion). I yet have to visualize the rest though it's taking shape and making sense slowly, etc.

That anounces a fair amount of day-dreaming ahead!

Good day, have fun!! :peace:
 
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Egzoset

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Day-Dreaming



More about...

So it now appears i've got the choice of 2 scenarios, either i favor the IH cooking pan concepts or i'm stuck with an IH cooking pan plan anyway, euh...

Consequenctly it's one of 2 solutions, m'well actually there's a 3rd one but it's quite a bit preculiar as the idea is to adapt a full-glass heat-exchanger to an existing IH thermostatic fry pan without having to cut into the expensive item at all... Which takes me back to these 2 propositions: a) "Plan-A" is the full-treat and requires virtually unlimited power within the range of application (e.g. some 1.3 KW emulation will do just fine!); b) "Plan-B" requires fire-compatibility and since butane is burned cleanly this conveniently provides a potent combination of desirable features already evaluated:

Packetized Hot-Gas (Moisturized Air Stream) Inlet Auto-Conditioning

Hoping the reader appreciates how abreviated/compact this description has become!...

Too bad the "Packet" element requires a custom-built IH driver with a coil layout which is cylindrical in shape instead of a flat disc. M'well No doubt i'll need to expand later, euh...

:coffee2:

OKay. It's clarifying somewhat, LASER or WaterJet cutting would provide me with ribbons and possibly even more complex 3D objects, for example an intrinsic/embeded heat-exchanger structure, etc. A long while ago i only had ribbon fantasies but my universe has evolved considerably since then! I've come to expect more than just a primitive/preliminary fix, actually only 1 single IH pan will support a set of multiple complementary IH experiments, not just this one alone:

And here's the next step:

Except the pan is built in stratified layers, which is OKay considering in my evaluation of "Plan-B" the UFO object is wrapped in a brass screen, both to hold it and also promote heat retension/transfer with the metal wall, behind my VG sphere's flame catcher aperture. This particular layout worked well in a "Plan-B" scenario (ignore the hollow tube):

It's stratified/layered too in some way, so i figure that's only going to work better with 17-holes UFO elements cut into a thermostatic IH fry pan!!

In conclusion, one way or another i need Curie alloys to toy with and all i found in the next big town nearby happened to be a fancy damn expensive fry pan...

The LavaWand can be injected IH energy packets autonomously via a suitably shaped IH base driver and/or simply behave as a passive wand while mounted on top of an external IH heat-exchanger (plus driver). Water droplets would be added manually mid-term, possibly by touching a wet pad with the tip or some other equally convenient ritual/action, then re-energize... It can even match the LavaDisc in a combo.

Using some 3rd-party IH driver as my Salton cooker plate (or some equivalent existing product) after a simple coil(s) reconfiguration. Otherwise a fully dedicated custom-built IH driver becomes necessary, which ain't that simple/affordable but i'll bet that's as rewarding as it seems involving i presume.

Quite an epic story around Curie-effect ribbons, discs and UFOs for sure!...

Good day, have fun!! :peace:
 
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Egzoset

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Salutations,

Another step has been reached: no water sips, no water glass. No drinks... And yet dragon play! While the week before this woud have seemed improbable if not impossible as far as i'm concerned! So "Plan-B" just met my expectations and beyond; i quite didn't expect this renewed perspective to be honest.

:toke:

Lets start with the cigarette, it's a tube where a combustion event generates hot gasses as a by-product, right? Then it sounds reasonable to assume that maybe dry air alone ain't potent enough (it's an insulator after all!) to do its toxic wonders, it's actually some type of "doping" (i prefer "potentiating") which render hot dry air capable of vaping vegetal material exactly as required to seduce the masses.

The modded VG pipe as a "Plan-B" visualisation tool already provides me an excellent definitive solution the way it is, there's even more potential to develop using IH technology on top of that. It's all a matter of alloys and shapes. In the meantime i pre-heat with a blue "jet" torch and try to pretend it's equivalent to "packet" IH pre-heating... The ritual is simple, never ever inhale in absence of a stable flame; stop/abort if necessary. The clean burning reaction is essential as it is how water vapor is produced, from butane burning. The UFO convex thermal mass makes it possible to suck hard to tighten/focus the red spot forming on the surface of my SiC front-puck, however its shielding effect doesn't last long and this is a delayed feature. It really is only a burst of energy that is intended, so it doesn't get sufficient time to roast the bowl. The period may be around, oh... Maybe not even 2 complete seconds i'd say, it depends how full the butane gas tank is, etc. Sometimes it's like a third of a second it seems. The i simply move the pipe away before it extinguist my blue flame. At that point i consider the "wand" has been "recharged" and that would imply packetized mode in my "Plan-A" IH scenario... Next i switch butane lighters though instead of identical units i've matched my blue one with a "candle" yellow-flame butane lighter. A BicTronic to be exact.

:coffee2:

It's not the ideal source of butane gas i usually have in mind but the experiments have felt so conclusive there's no point pushing the variants. The concept is valid, it's ready to go!... Because the similitude shared by cigarettes and butane-operated pipes tells me hot dry air potentialisation by hot gasses absolutely needs to be investigated much further, so we can see what's revealed! IMHO the gains i'm finally having using H2O + CO2 should not suffer significantly after the CO2 vector has been removed from that simple equation:

Stream of Hot Gases (Lava-grade) = Energy + Dry Air + H2O

That's probably why i'm so comfortable with the pipe ritual now, with most delays shortened to a few seconds... The whole session doesn't end with a toke, i like to play with my instrument as i rediscover it. Much like a musical one, because the modded VG pipe is analog and almost organic somehow. Ah the things i'd wish for, to share my good fortune with those who might use it, for starters!

A pile of Curie alloys and SiC pucks inside a tube, stacked repetitively as with a battery until sufficient power is developped, would most certainly accomodate those cannabic consumers who will wish to add 1 drop or 2 of water after the initial pre-heating phase, possibly past the 1st toke if tolerable. The intend being to preserve the initial bouquet of terpenes mixed with residual moisture, etc. But a tubular stack would require a cylindrical coil, so i find it easier just to evaporate water droplets directly on the LavaDisc surface... This is cookware anyway! With that said i must try to imagine a way to keep the water vapor confined nearby my heat-echanger, or right above on top of it, more precisely. A silicone or glass dome should do fine if there are a couple holes to allow pressure equalisation through them, etc. The wand would plunge into the pan right in its center, with a dome keeping the air moist temporarily - which is essentialy to garantee no water accumulations will risk to cause health concerns. E.G. droplets of distilled water in a clean vape should be a non-issue, tap water is something else as the minerals build up in concentration rapidly, etc.

...

It's funny the confusion my own anticipation appears to create, it's only about "Plan-B" in real terms and yet i keep visualizing the "Plan-A" scenario, more and more and more!! M'well, i'll say maybe there's only 1 final solution to my little dilema, ultimately.

Hummm... How to emboss a heat-exchanger spiral maze (and/or hot fats collector) into some thick IH fry pan?...

A heavy press? Go wonder.

Anyway i wanted to report a new feature resulting from my bursting consumption mode: it's like peper in the nose, it inspired me this expression: atch-"Snus"! I mean, that must be how Snus feels in Northern Europe i guess... My cannabic vapor felt this thick nonetheless!... Oh and some long-forgotten dragon fun, euh... Another time i think.

Good day, have fun!! :peace:
 
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Egzoset

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UPDATE



The thought occupied my imagination, i finally decided to give it a fair try:


Below on the heat-exchanger side of my sphere's flame-catcher aperture there's a solid-brass screen, i think (...), it's been wrapped around a 2 mm thick SiC puck (i'd prefer 3 mm) which itself supports the "UFO" shaped metal element (possibly aluminium). Temperature might be a concern in a "Plan-B" scenario but the Front-Puck is 4 mm thick and hence this renders it opaque to light... Meaning it's reasonable to hope intense radiative heat is blocked - which appears to confirm by experimentation as i've just installed this Glass Tripod Shield today.

It sits on top of the UFO element and compounds to my Front-Puck nicely while consequences are effective and easily observable in reality!

:woohoo1:

Using my stronger blue "jet" torch i was able to blow heat at the Front-Puck while inhaling energically and the cannabic load residues still showed even heat distribution (using basic skills) suggesting there were practically no risks left of catching fire in my bowl: the range of application seems wide open!

Watch out, now it's getting heavy. Should i ever integrate "Plan-B" to "Plan-A" (Induction Heat) with temperature intrinsically limited to ~204 °C max. (via Curie effect, e.g. by design), euh... That would imply i'm customizing a VaporGenie pipe since they hold a Patent on the simultaneous use of SiC discs and butane flames. The problem is i got no control over metal formulations, evidently. That means VaporGenie can never be bothered about what i'm doing here to that poor thing... Anyway, in this context i don't get alarmed over the presence of aluminium in my airpath around 165 ~ 185 °C, for less than a few seconds. IMO it may be time to find a more suitable model!

...

The ritual aspect i noticed was tubing length: the more power the longer i like it... Unfortunately, the longer it gets the lesser aroma/taste remains to be appreciated! So a creative solution to this dilema is to pre-heat for a split second (maybe a bit less) with a blue flame and long double-tube extension, then on the treshold of vaporisation switch to a yellow fainter blue flame and my short mid-length tube option which also doesn't requires different positioning for proper line-of-sight control, etc...

I wish i could share the moments, it's getting fun!

:peace:





ADDENDUM


The glass shield addition appears to correspond to one end of the operating spectrum i'd find desirable, without it i'm in a low-power "fine-tuning" zone while the later layout provides access to even stronger "jet" lighters i think. Low-power is "candle" flame compatible though while i find i went too far with the glass shield: it should be trimmed down a bit... But the preliminary impressions tell me that's pointing at a comfort zone i couldn't hope to describe before, because ultimately i can now measure the mass of each object, etc. But that's beyond the scope of my hobby, so i'll see what happens for a while then decide if i must step back, or try a glass "flower" (screen accessory)...



ADDENDUM #2

The additional mass/volume associated to the Glass Shield (sitting on top on a UFO element in the core) needs to be trimmed down unless i wish to evaluate even stronger lighters, which hardly seems appropriate on the long-term using a wooden prototyping platform. Now that i can "see" both ends of the operational spectrum i felt i'd just try a thicker Front-Puck so i've replaced that Glass Shield with a 1 mm thick SiC disc to raise the total thickness to 4 mm. So if a Glass Shield is still required then the UFO element will need to shrink in order to compensate, removal of the core screen acting as mechanical support would help too.

This inspires me an alternative:


(Duocel® aluminum foam metal is utilized as an energy absorber.)
 
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Egzoset

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Update



Hummm... I wonder. Using a 1300 Watts IH cooker plate i figure a droplet of fresh water (ideally distilled...) won't significantly affect final temperature as this particular structure behaves like a thermostat at the point of contact. With that much power at hand and real-life requirements which seem modest in comparison, actually, it's going to evaporate the droplet while a tad more power is injected to compensate at most. Yet lets consider power injection will vary while temperature remains stable, because it's regulated on-site by virtue of the Curie effect, and since there's no temperature sensor, no electronic processing/control and whatnot, etc., it shall translate as a remarquably agile multi-mode heat generator - because there's no interface, no associated delay(s) and so on. Ultimately there's nothing to break neither and when the 3rd-party IH driver finally dies there's even more at the local store...

Virtually infinite heat over the range of application (...), of course lets emphasize the fact that energy requirements drop in a noticeable manner once the pre-heating phase is through. Here's a related illustration to explain this in a glimpse:


At 1st energy is stored (and wasted a bit too), then the blue temperature curve becomes thermostatic essentially. Notice how "Apparent power" drops after the pre-heating stage... Suggesting there's plenty of margin for a droplet of water, but then what next?

...

It should evaporate and moisturize (if not "potentialize"!) hot dry air i think. Just 1 droplet or 2 won't matter in terms of temperature though i expect a radical improvement resulting into Inlet Auto-Conditioning, an expression i've sort of invented to ease locating previous texts/references, etc... Yet this is Paramount in my case, because without that special feature i can't enjoy cannabis vaporization anymore: i need my butane-operated pipe, because of the self-supplied water vapor it releases in generous amounts. If butane is no option the only solution left is to mix water vapor with fresh air *BEFORE* this "Release/Transport Agent" enters a powerful Heat-Exchanger, with Virtually Unlimited Heat within The Range of Operation!

:cools:

The output might be burning-hot so there's got to be water toys during a preliminary evaluation phase. I just can't say if i'll perform such testing myself but the puzzle is falling in place, slowly, progressively.

Instead of cutting thick steel maybe it's glass which could be customized, using waterjet cutting or similar i guess.

Good day, have fun!! :peace:
 

Egzoset

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Salutations,

M'well, various pieces of my Induction Heat puzzle had started to match then some unexpected reflexions took place since the time when i thought a short path to more IH brainstorming would have to include my kitchen IH fry pan, or even the HA Crucible + Arizer Solo Glass Stem contraption, etc. Actually the UFO Element which i found during last year's Montreal's Jazz festival became a most prolific source of additional inspiration for my customized VG pipe, after i decided to turn it into a slim 17-Holes Metal Disc, that is...

A near-finalized "Plan-B" experiment based on Hybrid Cores with a Metal Disc follows right below:


( Alt. Img Source: http://oi64.tinypic.com/k7szb.jpg )

This one was best at Sampler/Trainer missions. A complementary Core configuration was added later...

:cool1:

The disc now simply installs inside an Hybrid Core which has moved closer to its cannabic target, so there's only my SiC Front Puck left in a Sphere's main Monobloc cavity while the Screw-Base Aperture hosts both the Metal Disc and its associated Top-of-Bowl SiC Puck (the later being wrapped in Brass Screen to provide mechanical support + heat "defocussing"). Different Hybrid Core configurations give access to a large range of behaviours or "characters" and this is a feature i finally found desirable to exploit in a Near-Symetrical Hybrid Core Lava Capsule, considering there are 2 sides and hence it can have those reversed periodically to promote self-cleaning... Moreover, in "Plan-A" (IH) mode it's even possible to implement some analog vape control resulting from the mix of 2 Release/Transport Agents (heated air, etc.) generated by their respective Hybrid Cores working TOGETHER, e.g. simultaneously, with the consequence that this requires displacement of the exit cannabic stream inbetween them 2, obviously...

Ultimately it means there can be almost twice as much "Heat Charge" temporarily stored in the "Thermal Bottles" formed by those Hybrid Cores; according to this fresh-new concept my cannabic load now sits in a Bowl-Ring joining 2 complementary Spheres that share each individual PinHole path through an adjustable mixer. It's not like acting directly on the fresh-air entering a Flame-Catcher but i believe it may still prove useful to attempt indirect control via dual pressure drop: during Micro-Bursting pauses one side of the Ring-Bowl would cool somewhat faster, in an adjustable fashion, affecting the overall final energy level leading to a desired vaporizing temperature. IMO it would be good enough and if so then the next step would be to finish this design by including my cotton ball right where it's most obvious (in hope to get something similar to my "FogBong" effect - while a full "DeLuxe" senario would require some 3rd Hybrid Core to boil/evaporate distilled water meant to join the Fresh-Air source to "potentiate" it), etc...

Briefly put put i see cotton in the middle void where noble molecules would now collect via a belt of multiples holes circling that Bowl-Ring's center.

Next lets have an inside view to explain it further. :rolleyes2:

Down below this is my customized VaporGenie Bronze Sherlock besides what i view as a viable IH capsule adaptation for similar VG metal pipes, with a right-side zoom-in plan identifying 1 of 2 potential donut-shaped internal PinHole Collector Channels (see red arrow). In between the Monoblocs i'd exploit this anular space to create a new cannabic path able to collect my vaporized goodies; the pair of thin protruding ring-edges could easily serve to confine such a space and implement an Exit Collector channel for the Bowl, considering in IH mode fresh-air can now pass simultaneously through both Hybrid Cores, at once - to attack a load more evenly, e.g. to gather heat coming from both directions (relative to a bowl)...

Among missing items not represented in that picture there are 2 sets of 3 holes each linking 1 internal side of the Bowl to 1 collector channel per side, with the Monobloc's Scew-Base Aperture closing each path separately. Then, provided wood crafting is precise enough to ensure an air-tight fit, each of the Monobloc's collector channel shall connect to its own external anular mating-trench via a conduit cut into that Sphere's wood. Meaning we should finally attempt to visualize a VG-style "capsule" with 3 anular channels available for some mating handle-adapter, with analog adjustment and optional Outlet Self-Moisturizing as a bonus...

Imagine!...


( Alt. Img Source: http://oi68.tinypic.com/fxb40.jpg )

To help further with my explanations lets have a couple schematic drawings. 1st, a Near-Symetrical Lava Capsule without an adjustable PinHole-path mixer:


( Alt. Img Source: http://oi67.tinypic.com/15x1qxi.jpg )

Notice the PinHole conduits were in blocked state initially, the idea of affecting the balance/ratio only emerged after i started to reason that although the mechanics differ it might still suffice to emulate a continuous range of analog control:


( Alt. Img Source: http://oi66.tinypic.com/rsarde.jpg )

During "Heat Charge" (IH) injection one side would "saturate" somewhat hotter compared to the other, yet i have great confidence that wouldn't really matter a great deal in terms of final vegetal roasting: extraction would be done by the time hot spotting becomes really significant... M'well, at least i can say my "Plan-B" daily driver presently includes only half of a capsule and having one side hotter than the other is no big concern. Just stirr the cannabic substrate every couple tokes or so.

:stir:

There are uncertainly zones remaining (like the mating handle) but i find it much easier to visualize an eventual IH VaporGenie Capsule now. It's not exactly the category i was expecting as that's a B+, or A- (Conduction Pre-Heating, support for "Plan-B" Portable and/or Battery options, implicitely Self-Conditioned in "Plan-B" mode, Convection and 12 Vdc options)... For example that means "Pre-Heating" TC3 "saturation" point (in magenta) shall occur first, then EM energy would divert to the sides and drive both their Metal Discs a lot hotter, e.g. until each "Thermal Bottle" can be considered filled in a "Packetized" fashion.

Keep in mind the Curie temperatures do NOT determine cannabic bowl temperature directly but these still put a predictible/replicable limit on available heat anyway. So the net result i figure might be a device offering ultimate safety in "Plan-A" mode (a 3rd-Party IH driving base is put on the table and it stays there: only the LavaWand needs to be taken close to a consumer's face), with the benefit of a fall-back "Bi-Energy" option in the form of clean-butane burning, for "emergency" situations... Single-handed operation would be most desirable, as is the prospect of a reciprocal audio transducer working as an ultra-sonic shaker (promoting even thermalization to delay baking spots even further) - and also as a tap-touch probe, for the user input interface (in absence of a display, as it needs to be inclusive for blind users as well!)...

So, perhaps the LavaDisc idea can wait for attention a little bit longer. It seems to me i may have got a viable IH solution which is quite compatible with VG-look pipes after all...

Now if only this fine manufacturer might come to consider an IH mode for their patented design!

Good day, have fun!! :peace:
 
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