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My PH pen went swimming

ob1

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Hey all
I was just checking my ph and dropped the pen in the tub:doh:.
I think it's a little off as it says my ph is over 1300 :rofl:.
Luckily it was a cheap pen I am going on amazon to find a mid grade water proof pen.
Just wondering if anyone has any insight on a not bad water proof pen from Amazon
Thanks
 

St. Tom

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Hey all
I was just checking my ph and dropped the pen in the tub:doh:.
I think it's a little off as it says my ph is over 1300 :rofl:.
Luckily it was a cheap pen I am going on amazon to find a mid grade water proof pen.
Just wondering if anyone has any insight on a not bad water proof pen from Amazon
Thanks
i have a Hanna waterproof one i think it was about 50 pounds
 

nizmoKush

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I have the apera ph60 its waterproof but I bought it months ago I think it was cheaper than the price it has of 79.99 USD
 

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I use the PH200 from HM Digital, seems waterproof but didn't tryed :smoking:
 

ob1

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I was looking at a PH80 Tester HydroTester by HM Digital.
It seems like a pretty good unit from the reviews and runs about $55.00 CAD.
what sets it apart from the other cheaper meters is it comes with storage solution.
The meter I use at work for boilers, the probe has to be stored in a wet storage solution ( but its worth a lot of money and measures several other things)
Measures pH and Temperature
One-touch automatic digital calibration
Water resistant
Simultaneous temperature display
One year warrantee
sounds like an all right meter.
Anyone used one of these?
 

The Iconoclast

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Or better yet get indicator drops. They are always calibrated, fully waterproof, totally reliable, and dead accurate. Yellow is 6 slightly reddish yellow is 5.7 slightly greenish yellow is 6.3
 

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Or better yet get indicator drops. They are always calibrated, fully waterproof, totally reliable, and dead accurate. Yellow is 6 slightly reddish yellow is 5.7 slightly greenish yellow is 6.3
I started with the drops, but found that the colors were not easy to interpret over the small changes within the range that I wanted to operate. Certainly a lot better than nothing, but a poor tool, for me at least, for more precise management.

After a cheap pen did what they usually do, I ended up with an Apera PH60 and love it. It has performed flawlessly for over a year now, and if that ever stops, a new sensor is half the cost of a new pen.
 

The Iconoclast

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I started with the drops, but found that the colors were not easy to interpret over the small changes within the range that I wanted to operate. Certainly a lot better than nothing, but a poor tool, for me at least, for more precise management.

After a cheap pen did what they usually do, I ended up with an Apera PH60 and love it. It has performed flawlessly for over a year now, and if that ever stops, a new sensor is half the cost of a new pen.
The indicator drops work out much dearer than a pen in the longer term if you use them a lot as I do, probably about $30 per year. They are only accurate from 5.5 to 6.5 once you are used to them you can tell the colour of 6 against 6.1. The thing is that a clean yellow is 6 and that is right where we want to be because it gives wiggle room on both side.

But there is something very satisfying about using colour. I talk about it in this part of my SWC explanation. You cannot use the colour patches on the bottle they are too extreme. The thing about pens that bug me is it is not at all unusual to have some sort of surprising pH shift, and when that happens the first thing I'd do is want to calibrate my pen, as I'm basically like a pilot flying by wire. I have to trust the electronics. But with colour you don't even have to think. Like if you open your eyes and there's a red apple and a green apple, you just see them, you don't think there's a red apple and there is a green apple.

All it takes is to mix up a solution of pH 5.7, 6, and 6.3 with plain water using a reliable pen and then use the indicator drops on each one and it is then easy to see very subtle difference, you can easily extrapolate pretty well once you see exactly the tint of those ranges. Say you see something that appears somewhere between a slight warm tint at 5.7 and a yellow at 6, well you know you're some where about the middle, and seriously you do not need any more accuracy than that I reckon.

It was all the calibrating that got me in the end I couldn't stand it. I only used a cheap pen and annoyingly it never really went out of calibration, but with every strange result I appreciated the confidence of the drops.

It's a choice between electronic precision if done right, and confidence. For me confidence give me more peace of mind. For example, it is entirely normal for me to have adjusted the pH and there's just a seedling in giant reservoirs so it's not really impacting the solution yet, suddenly there can be a massive pH shift and with the drops when I see that I just correct it, because I do not doubt the result.

I suggest using both Pen and drops together for a period of time, I know it's counter intuitive and the pen is easier, but it gives me more brain damage, each to their own. I always go for peace of mind.

 
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ob1

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The indicator drops work out much dearer than a pen in the longer term if you use them a lot as I do, probably about $30 per year. They are only accurate from 5.5 to 6.5 once you are used to them you can tell the colour of 6 against 6.1. The thing is that a clean yellow is 6 and that is right where we want to be because it gives wiggle room on both side.

I'm guessing you never used Gro-tek nutrients.
The color is dark brown and you can't read a strip after dunking it in.
Strips work great in water but most nutrients have color.
 

The Iconoclast

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I'm guessing you never used Gro-tek nutrients.
The color is dark brown and you can't read a strip after dunking it in.
Strips work great in water but most nutrients have color.
Well the nutrients I use are a decent shade of brown, I don't know how the gro tek is but when the fluid is in the test tube it looks considerably lighter, and even with a base tint in the nutrient, it's really obvious to see how it changes reliably with the indicator drops. You just have to check it out yourself. And once you use a pH meter to calibrate what the colour should look like at particular pH's then you're golden. I will emphasise again that if you needed to go outside the range of 5.5 to 6.5 these drops would not be as useful. That is because it's easy to see a Red/Green swing on either side of the neutral Yellow, but you don't get that opposite contrast swing further down.

But for me the main reason I use drops is that I just got tired of continually checking calibration, then finding my fluid went mouldy and have to mix up another, or buy another buffer, it's was just a total pita. And the reason for this is that I'm just not prepared to go and make a radical change based on me trusting the pH meter. But that's just me. It's not for everyone. I like simple. Simple is good. The less unnecessary work I need to do the more I get to enjoy looking at the plants.

I used a pH meter side by side with the drops for a year, then when the pH meter broke, I was confident with the drops. It's hard to explain how much more satisfying it is to see what you want to know as colour rather than as numbers. It feels more connected to the plant. If you've already got a meter and most people have, I would urge anyone to get a bottle of the indicator drops for ten bucks and use it side by side for a while. You have nothing to lose.
 
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