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The Definitive Colloidal Silver Tutorial

E

Epic Genetics

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First off this was not writen by me , it was done by cabron , and it was the tutorial i learned from , i used my pic of the adaptor and wires , looks the same as his and i didnt link a pic from another canna site , there are pages and pages of discussion but the first couple posts from him are basically all we need and all ive posted here

This is dedicated to those that want to experiment with some Gals that they cherish...
Original Method I used from day 1 since releasing this info back at CW many years ago..

Follow it exactly and you will be successful...

The Definitive Colloidal Silver Production tutorial
Colloidal Silver aka: Silver suspended in water
Is nothing new and has been used for over a hundred years for various purposes.
Silver in itself is an impeccable sterilizing metal that is very precious..

My focus is using this metal in a wire form to create an electrode of both - and +
to submerse in a pure water free from dissolved solids and break the silver down into
the smallest particles possible.
We are in essence trying to penetrate the plant's epidermal layer and deliver the silver
particles to the cellular level to interfere with the ethylene production and ultimately
suppress it.

This done to a female staminate plant will create a full reversal when all goes well and
the results are viable pollen that will donate all the DNA and RNA that her lineage has
to offer,be it good or bad.

This is simply not going to create an exact clone or duplicate of the gal that is reversed any more than hitting her with pollen from a male sibling from her generation.

I want to make that clear ...
The results with your feminised breeding will be based solely on your ability to select a proper parent
on both sides of the equation be it donor or receptor.
This is merely a means to an end.

I will be using 14 gauge wire pharmaceutical silver that is 99.999% pure silver.
The wire configuration lends itself exceptionally well to the electrical erosion and
creation of silver particles,when combined with the voltages ,MA,duration,and O2
Enriched water that I outline in this tutorial.
12 gauge -14 gauge is ideal .
You simply cannot expect the same results with a silver bar for example as it's surface
area is far greater and the results will not be the same as the wire.
So stick to my detailed instructions exactly ...
This is in my opinion the ideal configuration and quality to use for this application.
I will be using pure RO water, nothing else (no sodium ever!)
Distilled water is also ideal,,but the emphasis has to be water that is pure and without and dissolved solids.

The power supply needs to be no higher than 800 ma for best results and an ideal voltage is under 9 volts, I like 6 to 7.5 the best.

My Old radioshack DC power supply has been going strong for 10 years.

An airstone was used by me initially as it is proven that an elevated dissolved oxygen
level in the water during electrolysis of the silver anodes allows a more efficient process and thus a smaller particle.

Remember this is paramount! the smaller the silver particle the better it will work!
lower voltage also allows a slower less erratic erosion of the silver wire and yet again smaller particles,rather than a larger amount of electricity and a larger flake.35-40 PPM is what you are aiming for

The Airstone incorporated into the CS process is Essential !! Mandatory and needed!!! I hope I made that clear!

The airstone needs to be placed in the container (preferably glass) prior to starting
the process.

for the last year or so ive been using just an airline , no air stone , this batch im making now i used a stone

i was a bit worried something had gone wrong and it wasnt working well due to my silver wires not getting overly dirty and building up with gunk , i just shut it off and then turned off the lights , checked with a lazer pointer and BOOM full of sparkles , like done , can stop brewing and start useing it , and not once did any gunk build up on the wires or in the bottom of the jar , yes the wires changed colour and got a dirty look , but no gunk/sludge

I usually only make enough to treat 1 small plant at a time and don't use any that is
beyond 30 days old.
This is why the crap they sell at GNC for example is not going to work..

1st it's made properly and 2nd CS has a shelf life.

Here is what my wires look like ...
Nothing fancy just 7" lengths attached to the DC power leads..
Don't ever let the leads from the voltage supply contact the water,only the silver!

The power supply is set at 7.5 volts and verified with my voltmeter!
Ranges from 6-9 vdc are ideal and 300 ma being minimal
but 800 maximum....
Spacing for the electrodes or wires is best at 2" or below..
I like 1/2" gap between them ,,,never touching of course!!
You will need to wipe the positively charged anode
every two hours.
This keeps a clean surface and the electrode surface unobstructed
in return she will continue the electro erosion process running smoothly
and particles will be the same size .
This also prevents that black build up of by product on the bottom.
It will turn black ,a paper towel is fine, wipe them both down while
you're at it!

Clean electrodes are happy electrodes!

once made, spray your plant once a day up to twice a day, but no more then twice, continue dayly spraying for about 2 weeks or until the male pollen sacs appear ready to release pollen, do not stop spraying at first signs of male flowers

with a photo period plant that is a known female/clone, start spraying her a few days before going 12/12

with an auto, start spraying at first sign of sex/pre flowers

make a pint/quart at a time , even a litre if you wish , approx 300 ml is needed for an average plant , less of course for a small plant or clone

I make it a regular practice to harvest the pollen into a petrie dish and
then brush the pollen onto target areas with a small detail brush.

If you are going to pollenate a whole room of target mothers then just place
her in front of the fan and kick the shit outta her!

keep in mind the plant kinda goes through TWO pre flowering phases , so if you want a plant flowering by a certain date , start her 2 weeks before you normally would

peace :cool:

EDIT oct 12 , 2013 : for those of us who consume/use c.s for personal health benefits ,,,,,,

One of the concerns about taking colloidal silver is a skin condition called argyria. Argyria is a condition where the skin turns grey or blue-grey. It is a real condition and it is difficult to reverse, but it is not caused by pure colloidal silver.
Let us define "colloidal silver" as: a solution made with pure silver wires (e.g. at least 99.95% pure silver), mixed with pure distilled water, and absolutely nothing is added to the water (i.e. no salt, no minerals, no nothing).
With this definition of colloidal silver, argyria is not possible. Argyria is caused by using silver compounds (meaning non-silver molecules are mixed with the silver or something is mixed with the water). Essentially argyria is caused by impurities in the mixture.
If a silver compound is called "colloidal silver," the vendor doesn't know what they are doing and probably doesn't care. The problem is with poor vendors, not with true and pure colloidal silver. That is one major reason to make it yourself.
It is essential to use distilled water, distilled by water distillation, when making colloidal silver. Do NOT add salt or minerals to the water or it may cause the skin discoloration. When the colloidal silver is made, if it is not consumed immediately (as soon as it cools down if useing heat), it should be stored in a dark colored glass bottle and the glass bottle or jar must be stored in a dark place (but do NOT refrigerate it). Silver will chemically react to light (technically it is more complicated than that).
NEVER, NEVER get your silver from a jeweler because their sterling silver has nickel and copper added to it!! Using sterling silver can cause serious health problems. Silver nitrate and silver chloride should obviously be avoided since neither are pure silver.

peace :Cool:
 
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E

Epic Genetics

Guest
notice where he says ,,,,,,

"We are in essence trying to penetrate the plant's epidermal layer and deliver the silver
particles to the cellular level to interfere with the ethylene production and ultimately
suppress it.

This done to a female staminate plant will create a full reversal when all goes well and
the results are viable pollen that will donate all the DNA and RNA that her lineage has
to offer,be it good or bad."

that to me explains it enough to show people that with C.S we are spraying the entire plant and not just part of the plant like when useing other methods , we are creating FULL reversal with C.S

peace :cool:
 

cres

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cabron...or cabby not heard from him in sometime... he had some great successes with CS and some failures.. Good guy at heart. I hope his medical program is doing OK these days, as he was "over the fence" for a while...lol
 
E

Epic Genetics

Guest
been a while since ive heard from him too , ever since he had somewhat of a meltdown at the site i copied this tutorial from , im a member at other sites he posts at but i dont realy visit them

peace :cool:
 
E

Epic Genetics

Guest
here is a pic of a CS generator i just made for a member here



it is smaller then what i use but more then big enough to make more CS then needed for a single breeding run , this way there isnt any or much CS that wont get used or wasted

and a second pic further back



peace :cool:
 
D

drewbot

Guest
First, there is no positively charged anode. A cathode is positively charged, and an anode is negatively charged. On the other hand, the convention as to whether the cathode or anode is "+ or -" a matter of convention, where engineers and chemists have historically disagreed. In chemistry, the anode of an electrolytic cell is where the oxidation of the silver occurs: In this case, the anode is the one which doesn't need to be wiped off, and the oxidation reaction is Ag ---> Ag+ + e- . That's the side where there are plenty of electrons delivered from the power source. That's what we would think of as being the charge, or the "negative charge." It gets really confusing, as the color convention and the "positive/negative" convention are all ass crackwards.

The historical reasoning is that the electrical cell potential follows "spontenaity" laws. In other words, it follows the gibbs free energy equations where "G" or "DeltaG" is spontaneous when negative. For the same reason, a galvanic cell aught to be spontaneous when the cell potential is negative. On the other hand, engineers like to use the convention where the "surroundings" is the convention of interest, rather than the system. Something like that.

Not to be a dick or anything but have you considered setting up a galvanic cell instead? No electronics required. Find, say, an electron acceptor with a higher standard reduction potential and just let 'er rip to equilibrium, dilute to 40ppm or whatever. Silver nitrate could also help this situation along. I suppose silver nitrate could work instead. I don't think that nitrate foliar fed is all that odd to a plant. I do believe the silver nitrate has been used historically to nurserymen (although I can't remember the circumstance).

Oh and allegedly the Ag+ ion jams up a catalyst in the Yang cycle to inhibit ethylene production (I guess). It replaces copper. Apparently this is a cascade reaction and it seems to be pretty complicated. I can't find the literature on the subject but it was a good read.
 
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cres

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Not to be a dick or anything but have you considered setting up a galvanic cell instead? No electronics required. Find, say, an electron acceptor with a higher standard reduction potential and just let 'er rip to equilibrium, dilute to 40ppm or whatever. Silver nitrate could also help this situation along. I suppose silver nitrate could work instead. I don't think that nitrate foliar fed is all that odd to a plant. I do believe the silver nitrate has been used historically to nurserymen (although I can't remember the circumstance).
.
STS... that why. If you can obtain Sliver Nitrate then make sts, its king in the reversal of MJ. The whole CS is like working with only half of sts(just silver)... Its unreliable at best and the data is unclear because it just is not that effective..imo

But peeps can make CS in a desk draw with common items.. and silver nitrate and soduim thinsolate have to be ordered from a chemical supplier...
 
E

Epic Genetics

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The whole CS is like working with only half of sts(just silver)... Its unreliable at best and the data is unclear because it just is not that effective..imo

...
have you seen the pics ive posted of some of my fully reversed plants ? CS has not failed me one bit

@ drewbot , as mentioned , i didnt write the tutorial , just shared it as it was where i learned about makeing and useing CS

peace :cool:
 

cres

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How many different strains bob? Full plants or just a branch?
 
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