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 TLO/Super Soil recipes

Discussion in 'Organic Growing' started by Joe Dirt, Jul 23, 2012.

  1. Joe Dirt

    Joe Dirt Guest

    Please post your current recipe (if you use one). This will be stickied if there are any contributions. I currently have L3V3R's, DIRT's, and subcool's saved for my personal use, but would prefer to get permission before I post them.
  2. L

    L Molten Glass Manipulator

    Jul 4, 2011
    Likes Received:
    L3V3R3'S autoflower soiil mix
    So I posted this in my JEM thread but I wanted to make it easier for everyone to find here ya go

    L3V3R'S soil mix
    Everybody's been asking what my soil mix is so here it is.

    I start out with my own personal compost from my kitchen and yard scraps as part of my base, but you can easily use some other type of compost as a base, black cow ia a good alternative to the compost part of the base too. or if your into it like i am I also use old leached out recycled composted soil from past grows Waste not.
    Here we go this is what you will need

    Peat moss (or promix bx works fine)
    Mexican bat guano
    Indoesian bat guano
    Jamacian bat quano(optional)
    Peruvian seabird quano
    Kelp meal
    epsom salts
    Earthworm castings
    Greensand (optional)
    Rock posphate (optional)
    Crushed oyster shells
    dolomite lime (optional)

    Alright after you've aquired all these things
    Lets make the base that we will work with which will be 10-gal of compost and 10-gal of peat (right now i'm using promix bx instead of peat and I like it)
    that makes 20 gal to that I add 20 pounds of earthworm castings that is my main base.you can add more if you like

    All of these things can be found at a local hydro shop or online. Sorry but this what i use :)

    and to that I add
    1 cup each of the quanos
    2 cups kelp meal
    1 cup green sand
    1 cup rock phosphate
    1 cup epsom salts
    a whole bag of crushed oyster shells
    and like 4 cups of dolomite lime (if your not using the lime double up on the oyster shells) These two even out the ph from using all the quano

    I mix it all together getting a good and even mix and put it in a 30-50 gallon garbage can add a couple of gallons of water keep it uncovered but cover it when it rains it needs to cook for atleast a month but a month and a half would be better.
    The cooking off is the most improtant part it breaks down the organic material into usable nutrients for the plant roots.

    Then you can take that and mix it 50% mix 30%peat and 20%perlite the chunkier the better with the perlite this works awesome for seedlings. You can adjust it to your needs and it can be as diverse as you want it to. It don't have to be the exact ratios as I'm giving. The ratios I am providing from my tests should not burn and gives them a good healthy boost in their first month if not longer. Remember you are feeding the soil not the roots

    It's better if you keep recycling your soil when your done with your grow. I flush the soil really well after harvest and use the old soil as my compost part of my base then add promix and amendments. This keeps the micro bacteria population high.
    calldutyaw, Nan, CGR and 2 others like this.
  3. DIRT

    DIRT Welcome to the CannaZone

    Jan 24, 2011
    Likes Received:
    Here's the mix I've been using,I've ran this mix for my last 3 consecutive grows with no deficiencies and zero re-amending I'm currently on my 4th run and am now seeing subtle signs that re-amendment is in order...this is a just add water mix,with the exception of hygrozyme every so often and on the very rare occasion a finely brewed tea.

    I kinda winged it and got lucky..

    Disclaimer:Here's my mix but use it at your own risk I am not liable for any damages you may incur and may become subject to or any unsatisfactory results you may be pissed off with.

    Dirt's Mix

    50 gal base

    3 cu. ft coco
    1 bag mushroom compost
    20 gal recycled soil.

    total of 50 gal base.

    14-15 cups oyster shell
    1kg or 7 cups kelp meal
    6 cups prilled lime
    3 cups alfalfa meal
    4 cups blood meal
    4 cups bone meal
    4 cups rose and flower 5-3-8
    3 cups dolomite powder
    4.5 cups rock phosphate
    3 cups soft rock phosphate
    4.5 cups flower power 4-10-4
    2 cups DE
    6 cups greensand

    after cooking for awhile I still had a high ph of 8.0 so I tried to lower it by adding..

    7 gallons peat {nature mix brand}
    +1 cup alfalfa
    2cups high n guano
    2 cups vegano 3-3-3 all purpose
    which proved to have no effect on the ph.

    I alternate each watering between distilled and bubble tap water.

    I thought I might have used to much dolomite in the mix but it seems to have worked out fine so far,the microbeasties have kept the balance.
    Nan, CGR and robbio like this.
  4. Mr Piggy

    Mr Piggy Guest

    Three Little Birds Method
    40 gallons used soil
    4 cups alfalfa meal
    4 cups bone meal
    4 cups kelp meal
    4 cups powdered dolomite lime
    30 pound bag of earthworm castings . . .
    That’s the basic recipe . . .
    However we also like to use
    4 cups of Greensand
    4 cups of Rock Phosphate
    4 cups of diatomaceous earth
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 14, 2012
    Dion, BlackCanna420, Nan and 2 others like this.
  5. Scyntra

    Scyntra Guest

    well sub is all about getting the info out there so here is his recipe...

    [​IMG] 2010 Revised Super Soil Recipe

    Super Soil

    To me, there is nothing like the taste of properly grown organic cannabis. The subtle flavors and aromas created when using Mother Earth are pleasantly overwhelming to the senses when everything is done properly. As with many vegetables, a rich organic soil can bring out the best in a plant. Throughout the past 20 years, I have tried almost every possible way to cultivate our favorite plant and while hydroponic is certainly faster and more productive, I have developed a soil that performs extremely well with very little guess work. I don’t worry about PH or PPM (parts per million), I simply have spent a few years developing a n effective recipe. Using seven gallon nursery pots, I can grow plants from start to finish using only water. Other than a bit of sweat equity every 90 days or so, this takes a huge amount of science out of the garden and puts nature back in charge. This recipe is slightly different from the one I had used previously— the one so many consider to be gospel— and that has been passed around for years from grower to grower. I consider this version to be new and improved and reflects the exact formula I am using at the time this book was actually printed.

    I always start with at least 6-8 large bags of high quality organic soil. The selection of your base soil is very important, so don’t cut corners here. I cannot possibly discuss all the different products but I will mention a few notable favorites. A good organic soil should cost between $8-10 per 30 lb. bag. To get a really good idea of what I consider to be a balanced soil, take a look at the ingredients of a product called Roots Organic:

    Lignite*, coca fiber, perlite, pumice, compost, peat moss, bone meal, bat guano, kelp meal, Green sand, soy bean meal, leonardite, k-mag, glacial rock dust, alfalfa meal, oyster shell flour, earth worm castings and Mycorrhizae.

    I have always had success in giving my plants a wide range of soil amendments; I figure it's like a buffet where they get all they need.

    “Lignite, also known as leonardite, mined lignin, brown coal, and slack, is an important constituent to the oil well, drilling industry. Lignite, or leonardite as it will be referred as hereafter, is technically known as a low rank coal between peat and sub-bituminous. Leonardite was named for Dr. A.G. Leonard, North Dakota's first state geologist, who was a pioneer in the study of lignite deposits. Leonardite is applied to products having a high content of humic acid. Humic acid has been found to be very useful as a drilling
    mud thinner.”

    Another soil product we are now testing is called Harvest Moon:

    Washed coco fibers, Alaskan peat moss, perlite, yucca, pumice, diatoms, worm castings, feather meal, fishmeal, kelp meal, limestone, gypsum, soybean meal, alfalfa meal, rock dust, yucca meal, and Mycorrhizae fungi.

    The Roots Organic soil has typically produced a more floral smell in the finished buds, while the Harvest Moon generates larger yields.

    If you have access to good local mixes like these, then I highly recommend starting with these types of products. We have also had decent results using larger commercial brands, but not without plenty of additives. The best result we have seen from well known soil that is available nationwide is with Fox Farms “Ocean Forest” soil combined in a 2-1 ratio with “Light Warrior,” also produced by Fox Farms. On its own, the Ocean Forest is known for burning plants and having the wrong ratio of nutrients, but when mixed with Light Warrior it makes a pretty good base soil.

    You can also just use two bales of their “Sunshine Mix #4,” but this is my last choice and plants growing in this may not complete properly with my “just add water” method of soil growing. The concept with this concentrated soil is to not have to worry about mixing nutrients once the soil is made.

    The mix is placed in the bottom ¼ to ½ of the container and blended with base soil. This allows the plants to grow into the strongly concentrated soil and, in the right size container, they need nothing else but water throughout the full growing cycle. With strains requiring high levels of nutrients like Cheese and Space Queen and other high energy demand strains, we go as strong as ¾ of the container with Super Soil but this is only with a small percentage of strains.

    Here are the amounts we have found that produce the best tasting buds and strongest medicines:

    8 large bags of high quality organic potting soil with coco and Mycorrhizae
    25-50 lbs. of organic worm castings
    5 lbs. of Blood meal 12-0-0
    5 lbs. Bat guano 0-5-0
    5 lbs. Fish Bone Meal 3-16-0
    ¾ cup Epsom salt
    1 cup Sweet lime (Dolomite)
    ½ cup Azomite ( Trace element)
    2 Tbs. powdered Humic acid
    *** If using an RO system add in 1/2 cup powdered Cal/mag

    This is the same basic recipe I have used for 15 years. While I have made small changes in the ingrediants the basic recipe has stayed the same with the main change being the type of products we use. I do make small changes and that means the true recipe is always changing slightly but each of the changes is small and if I see no benifit I return to the previous mix. The hardest ingredient to acquire is the worm castings. Most people don't even know what this is. Be resourceful and find it! Worms make up ¾ of the living organisms underground and hold our planet together.
    Be careful not to waste money on “Soil conditioner with worm castings.” Buy local, pure worm poop with no added mulch.

    There are several methods of mixing this up well. You can sweep the ingredients off a patio or garage and work with it there on a tarp.You can use a kids’ plastic wading pool. These cost about $10 and work really well for a few seasons. Some growers have been known to rent a cement mixer and cut down on the physical labor. As long as you get the ingredients mixed up properly, that is all that matters.

    This can be a lot of work so don’t pull a muscle if you’re not used to strenuous activity. The manual method is good for the mind and body. Working with soil keeps me in pretty good shape, but if you have physical limitations you can simply have someone mix it up for you while you supervise. One of the things I like about this method is that I can drop off plants to a patient and all they have to do is water them when the soil dries out.

    Place a few bags of base soil in first, making a mound. Then place the powdered nutrients in a circle around the mound and cover it all with another bag of base soil.
    Then, in go the bat poop and more base soil. I continue to layer soil and additives until everything has been added to the pile. At this point, I put on the muck boots. These help me kick the soil around and get it mixed up well using my larger leg muscles and not my back and arms. Then it’s as simple as my Skipper used to say: “Put your back into it.” This is hard work that I obsess on, even breaking up all the clods of soil by hand. I mix for about 15 minutes, turning the pile over and over until it is thoroughly combined. I store the mix in large garbage cans.

    Before using it, the entire load is poured out once more and mixed well. Once placed in the storage containers, I water the mix slightly, adding three gallons of water to a large garbage can full. It will make the stirring harder next week but this will activate the Mycorrhizae and help all the powders dissolve.

    Now, we add water and let it cook in the sunshine. Thirty days of cooking is best for this concentrate.

    Do not put seeds or clones directly in this mix. It is a concentrated mix used in conjunction with base soil. Place it in the bottom of each finishing container. Fully rooted, established clones should be placed in a bed of base soil that is layered on top of the concentrate. As the plants grow, they slowly push their roots into the Super Soil, drawing up all nutrients needed to complete their life cycle. Super Soil can also be used to top dress plants that take longer to mature.

    I use this mix for a full year, just adding about 30-50% in the lower portion of the container, depending on the strain, and plain base soil in the top portion. (Base soil means your regular potting soil such as Roots, Harvest Moon, or even Sunshine Mix without the additives!)

    Buds produced from this method finish with nicely faded fan leaves and the end result is a smoother fruity flavor. The plants are not green when done but purple, red, orange and even black at times. The resin content is heavier and the terpins always seem to be more pungent.

    This method is used by medical growers all over with amazing results. The feedback I receive is really positive with reports of hydro-like growth and novice growers producing buds of the same quality as lifelong growers.

    You can watch more info on my Youtube channel



    We switched from Bone meal to Fish bone meal because its organic
    Rock dust is no longer available due to the patriot act and I am not sure it helped anyway the Roots soil has Glacial Rock dust included.

    I am now using 6 bags of Roots 2 bags of Biobiz Light in my recipe.

    This is the most current recipe.

    I hope this clears up some confusion. ​
    NewDream, Batigol, GodAmJT and 3 others like this.
  6. Kilgore Trout

    Kilgore Trout Auto Warrior

    Jun 14, 2012
    Likes Received:
    This soil mix is simple, inexpensive and very effective. Oh, and it is alive!!
    I start seedlings in a sphagnum peat, ewc, perlite mix and when ready transplant to growing mix.
    This is the base mix:

    50% sphagnum peat (wet this before you start mixing)
    25% ewc (homemade)
    15% lava rock
    10% calcined diatomaceous earth


    equal parts of each

    Kelp meal
    Neem meal
    Crab meal
    Flaxseed meal

    2cups of this per cubic foot of base mix.

    1cup fish bone meal per cf of base mix.

    2 cups glacial rock dust.

    Mix till your arm aches and then mix some more.

    Now hit it with an ACT of ewc and blackstrap mollases.

    Let it cycle for a month. Keeping it moist and perhaps a stir now and then.

    Folks, you will now have a start to finish 'water only mix'.

    I do add 1/4 tsp. of liquid silica per gallon of water.

    With this mix you can leave the pH tester in the drawer and the pretty bottles at the store.

    Happy growing,

    Ron Paul, Dudeski, Nan and 5 others like this.
  7. DIRT

    DIRT Welcome to the CannaZone

    Jan 24, 2011
    Likes Received:
    Nice looking mix Kilgore and welcome to AFN.:thumbs:
    CGR and robbio like this.
  8. cres

    cres Banned

    Jun 9, 2011
    Likes Received:
    Cres's easy start Organic mix

    3.8cf promix
    7 cf coco
    4 cf Maine lobster compost
    20 lbs kelp
    20 lbs dolomite
    20 lbs dried bone meal
    10lbs dry blood
    10 lbs green sand
    10 lbs rock phosphate
    25 lbs calcium chips(chicken food)
    mycro-white shark mycro and other beneficial bacteria

    Not alot of N here but I'm going to run with this its cooking now...:peace:

    I was in a time crunch so this was easy to find start, for the next run I will add Bat and fossilized seabird, with more lime and kelp.

    This is all virgin stuff so I'm sure it will be enough N for the first run of this mix with Autos...:D

    This made enough for 11- 20gal rubbermaid tubs with no holes in the bottom.:thumbs:

    Which I will run 5 auto fems in each.
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2012
  9. LiquidJunglist

    LiquidJunglist Guest

    I might just have to take his mix and make it smaller.. Has anyone every done that? Say cut all the ingredients by half and making a smaller batch of mix?


    Here is a break down i found for cutting down the mix..

    Subcool's soil recipe broken down for the lazy folks

    Full Recipe
    8 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)
    25 to 50 lbs of organic worm castings
    5 lbs steamed bone meal
    5 lbs bloom bat guano
    5 lbs blood meal
    3 lbs rock phosphate
    ¾ cup Epson salts
    ½ cup sweet lime (dolomite)
    ½ cup azomite (trace elements)
    2 tablespoons powdered humic acid

    1/2 Recipe
    4 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)
    12.5 to 25 lbs of organic worm castings
    2.5lbs steamed bone meal
    2.5lbs bloom bat guano
    2.5lbs blood meal
    1.5lbs rock phosphate
    3/8 cup or 6 tablespoons Epsom Salts
    1/4 cup or 4 tablespoon sweet lime (dolomite)
    1/4 cup or 4 tablespoons azomite (trace elements)
    1 tablespoon powdered humic acid

    1/4 Recipe
    2 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)
    6.25 to 12.5 lbs of organic worm castings
    1.25lbs or 20 ounces steamed bone meal
    1.25lbs or 20 ounces bloom bat guano
    1.25lbs or 20 ounces blood meal
    3/4 lbs rock phosphate
    3/16 cup or 3 tablespoons Epsom Salts
    1/8 cup or 2 tablespoons sweet lime (dolomite)
    1/8 cup or 2 tablespoons azomite (trace elements)
    1.5 teaspoons powdered humic acid

    1/8 Recipe
    1 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)
    3.125 to 6.25 lbs of organic worm castings
    .625 lbs or 5/8 lbs or 10 ounces steamed bone meal
    .625 lbs or 5/8 lbs or 10 ounces bloom bat guano
    .625 lbs or 5/8 lbs or 10 ounces blood meal
    3/8 lbs or 6 ounces rock phosphate
    3/32 cup or 1.5 tablespoons Epsom Salts
    1/16 cup or 1 tablespoon sweet lime (dolomite)
    1/16 cup or 1 tablespoon azomite (trace elements)
    3/4 teaspoon powdered humic acid
  10. LazyDay

    LazyDay Auto Warrior

    Dec 26, 2012
    Likes Received:
    With subcool's mix I remember reading some where that you used the super soil mix only on like 1/4-1/3 of the container and used the rest was base soil. I maybe wrong so dunno. But with autos would that rule still apply? Anybody use his mix with autos? Thinking maybe it'd be too strong as in the nutrients not be used up in such a short grow. Or does the ratio hold true that with 1/4 on bottom the plant would use it up in 10 weeks.
    densemob likes this.

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