Fellow growers, I come here today to bring you a little info on a well know fertilizer line that has been around for some time. I have been asked in the past to do this as I have had success time after time with the product and it yields great results, not only in ganja but in the veggie world too.

I’ll start by saying that I have zero affiliation with the company, and have just been a consumer of the product for years now, going on 6 or 7 actually. I’ll talk about the trio that I have used and as far as the other products in the line I can’t speak to them at all but I can lead you on the path of success with the standard trio.

FF Trio

So, let’s get started shall we. I’ll bring down the basics as well as the ins and outs of using this stuff, all the way down to the way that I mix it in with the water that I use. The reason that I am making this is that I have seen a lot of growers use it and burn the plants or the don’t get the results that they way, I’m here to change that or at least provide the best info that I can about his potent yet successful fertilizers.

So let’s get into the meat and potatoes of this whole thing.

First the soil, this, I think is rather important to the success to the product. We need something with little to not base ferts at all. If we have things that are already in the soil we would have to revise how we feed them. Most know that if the soil already has ferts in it they are most likely time or slow release. This can cause serious over feeding issues and the end result that we don’t want, burnt plants.

Any of our favorite soils can be used for this application, anything that is light and airy will work great. I use black gold brand and it has a base of 0.05-0.00-0.00. So there is basically nothing in that soil that could amplify the ferts that we add to it as they grow. There are many more on the market that suit the needs and everyone has their faves. This is just used to give you an idea of a good base to start with as we are talking about chemical based fertilizers here.

Seedling stage:

For about the first two weeks there is really no need to feed the little ones, I have yet to see one that has needed anything at that point. Sure there is the one off plant that may need something but unless you actually see a def, don’t feed the plants at all. I know that we all want to push them and get bumper yields but the first goal you should have is making sure the plants get what they need and not force feed them.

Second nodes formed:

In this stage you can start your feeding, you can see here that there are some color variations to the little ones. They have used what they could from the base soil as well as what minerals that are in the water. So in prep for the grow big this is what I do, I have a 5 gallon res that I keep all my water in throughout the grow. So I fill that up to the 4 gal mark and base all my mixing upon 4 gallon, so all that is needed here is simple math. The product calls for 2 teaspoons per gallon of water. So in theory for 4 gallons would need 8 teaspoons of liquid grow big, and for the above stage that is a wee bit much. So I cut it into 1/4 strength per gallon. Typical is 2 teaspoons for the 4 gal of water to start with. That is all that is needed here for this stage. Water with this every other watering as to not overdue it. This is where the plants need to be watched. If they look like they need more then step it up just a bit as it does not need much to get them back in the swing.

Preflower stage: usually hits about three weeks or a week and a half after they show sex.

Here we can see that things are starting to ramp up a good bit. Preflowers are showing and they are starting to get some size to them. This stage I usually go for 1/2 strength. This means in 4 gal tub there are 4 teaspoons of fert in the water mix. This is when I start an aggressive feed schedule. I will water every watering with this strength for about a week or so depending on how fast I start to see the plants develop. This is why it is so important to watch the plants and give them what they need more so than try to push them to hard. All you are going to do is hurt the end result cause if you burn them, you are stressing them and that in turn hurts yield.

Beginning of stretch and bud sites forming: Enter Tiger Bloom

This is the stage that I start to change things over, you can see here that the plants are starting to stretch and set their buds into the next phase of life. Now here is the key, the plants are sturdy now, and can take a bit of ferts. We still need to make sure that we do not overdo it, but we need to make sure they are still getting what they need. In this stage of life Nitrogen is no longer a need as much as phosphorus is. So this is where we switch things over. 4 gallon base, 1 teaspoon of Grow Big, 3 teaspoons of Tiger bloom. Water with this ever other water, I may do a back to back feed at start followed by clean water on the next one and then alternate. This will make things really come alive. You should see color like this in the leaf, nice dark healthy growth. Keep this schedule until you see flower set in. Should only need to add the grow big once in the above phase, if you need to replenish the res of feed water you can leave out the teaspoon of grow big as the plant is still getting some N from the tiger bloom.

Flower:

This is where it gets fun, and can be dangerous, we all want big fat buds and high yields. Again and I know I have said it about 10 times in this article but watch the plants. If you are seeing burnt tips, stop what you are doing flush a few runs and then, fert back with a lower dose. Here we want to have 4-6 teaspoons of tiger bloom to the 4 gallons of water. This will give them more than what they need yet push them right along. Use this the same as above ever other water should be dandy as you are keeping the fert to water ratio low and slow. If you see salt build up, which looks like a white film around the holes in the bottom of the pot. Flush her a few good times with clean water and remember you are not going to hurt yield, if she starts yellowing on the lower leaf that is OK. You are in flower now and she will start to come to an end. I usually take this feed schedule until I start seeing pistils browning and receding. This is getting close to time to finish. So backing off and flushing is not a bad idea when you start to see that.

When to trigger a flush with FF:

So now that I have been over the above we want to make sure that we get the salts out as well as make sure she starts to pull from her fans. When to start that? Usually around the time I mentioned above, when the pistils start to recede and die off. Then it’s time to get rid of the ferts altogether. Flush with clean balanced pH’ed water. You are not going to hurt yield at all here. The plant has enough stored in the fans that it will do what it needs. Again this is all based on watching the plant and making sure it’s time to do what is needed. Once the pistils start dying and you don’t see any more coming in its time to let her finish off until you see all the pistils gone from the grow.

Here is what I look for when it’s time to flush the FF out.

As they progress into the final stage this is what you will see. They dying fans are a good thing and honestly it shows you that the ferts are gone and she is pulling her last bit from her leaf.

So this is a huge read and I know it, but I wanted to give an idea what it’s like to run the FF gear and have great results. It’s easy to do if you just watch the plants and let them respond to the gear cause this stuff will grow the shit out of some pot, and it is honestly why I never use another brand. I don’t get a chemical taste the odors are amazing and they get what they need. Key is a proper flush at the end and it will make you smile as they grow.

Now the other part of the trio that I didn’t mention was the big bloom, reason is that stuff is good for the entire grow. Add it in moderation and it can be used in every feeding as it is more of a stimulant to the macros as well as the roots. So it’s rare to burn with it and it does really well with the plants. Key is always moderation, and if you always keep that in the back of your mind it will produce great results for you.

2 COMMENTS

  1. Great read and article! Not sure if its my net; yet all the images are broken? Hope to see the images appear soon and once again awesome article. Thank you

  2. So glad to have found this I’m a new grower decided I want to use ff gear.
    I heard many complain it burns up the plants I will use in moderation but seen you did push them at the end no problem.
    I got the trio and solubles I won’t be starting with the solubles will learn trio first.
    Thanks so much I’m much calmer about using all these products.

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